I first visited Managua in 1998.  I was living in a quiet pueblo a half hour's
drive up into the hills above the capital, but traveled to the capital once a
week for training and errands.  But trips to Managua were exciting because of
the chance to see friends again, not because it was an exciting place to spend
time.  Rather, Managua was dusty, chaotic, expensive by the standards of every
other Nicaraguan community I was familiar with, hard to navigate around in and
harder to appreciate.

Who'd have guessed I'd eventually make it my home?

Today, as Managua stretches inexorably southwards, its layout reflects its
violent history: The ruins of old Managua remain at the water's edge--from
there, in all directions, spread hundreds of shapeless, characterless barrios
that rose from the rubble after each new natural or manmade disaster. Along
Carretera Masaya, pricey shops, clubs, and restaurants continue sprouting up to
service new neighborhood developments of the wealthy.  The following are some
thoughts on Managuan development:

I first visited Managua in 1998.  I was living in a quiet pueblo a half hour's
drive up into the hills above the capital, but traveled to the capital once a
week for training and errands.  But trips to Managua were exciting because of
the chance to see friends again, not because it was an exciting place to spend
time.  Rather, Managua was dusty, chaotic, expensive by the standards of every
other Nicaraguan community I was familiar with, hard to navigate around in and
harder to appreciate.

Who'd have guessed I'd eventually make it my home?

Over the next two years I visited Managua regularly to do business, collect
mail, run errands, see the doctor, attend meetings, and so on.  But going to
Managua was a chore I disliked, and I grumbled to anyone who praised its
limited qualities, "anyone who likes Managua never lived in a real city."  That
meant Boston, in my case.

Fast forward to 2000, when Hurricane Mitch's trail of devastation remained
largely untouched and swarms of government assistance were gathering to help
rebuild Nicaragua and hopefully set it on a path of sustainability.  I was
fortunate enough to be a part of that effort, and from 2000 to 2002 I made
Managua my home, biting my tongue after two years of swearing I'd never do
so.  And lucky thing, too, because I met my lovely wife there and learned to
like Managua despite myself.

Working on the first edition of Moon Handbooks Nicaragua, Josh and I wrote:

Sun-baked and sweltering, Managua is a place of contradictions and challenges.
Less a city that "is" than a city that "was," history lurks around every
corner; less an urban center than an enormous conglomerate of nondescript
neighborhoods, modern-day Managua is what a city looks like when everything has
gone wrong.

Managua is not an easy place to get to know, but you will be rewarded for your
efforts, for there is much to experience in this intense, clamorous, capital,
and spending time among its 1.5 million inhabitants is essential for anyone who
hopes to understand the country. The sweating taxi driver negotiating his
Russian-made cab down unnamed streets; the university student clamoring for a
bigger education budget; the slick, young entrepreneur touting his new
theme-bar in the zona rosa; the seamstress in the free trade zone demanding
fair treatment  --  these are the people struggling to shape the new Managua
into a more livable city.

Ericka and I left Managua shortly after we married and return to visit several
times a year, and in 2006 we even bought a Nicaraguan home of our own.  But
being away from Managua makes the changes in this city even more dramatic.  An
unassuming chaos since the revolution years and even earlier, suddenly
Managua's reconstruction has accelerated: since the mid 1990s, tens of
kilometers of roads have been repaved, several luxury hotels completed, and a
new cross-city bypass built and the changes are more dramatic with each passing
year.  Clearly Managua, or more specifically, Managuans, are continuing to
reinvent Nicaragua's capital to this day.

We wrote in the second edition of Moon Handbooks Nicaragua that you could trace
Managua's history southward from the city center:

Today, as Managua stretches inexorably southwards, its layout reflects its
violent history: The ruins of old Managua remain at the water's edge--from
there, in all directions, spread hundreds of shapeless, characterless barrios
that rose from the rubble after each new natural or manmade disaster. Along
Carretera Masaya, pricey shops, clubs, and restaurants continue sprouting up to
service new neighborhood developments of the wealthy.

It is more true than ever: though the city's decrepit north side still crumbles
against the shore of Lake Managua, the capital claws its way relentlessly
southward towards Masaya.   As recently as 2002, when Ericka and I were packing
up our Managua apartment in Barrio Tiscapa and heading to a new lifestyle in
West Palm Beach, Florida, Las Colinas (and neighboring Santo Domingo) were
distant outposts on the Carretera Masaya.  But a short four years later those
long, empty expanses have largely been filled in.  The vacant corner next to
the enormous Evangelical church tent blossomed into a gorgeous new Salvadoran
shopping center called Centro Siman Santo Domingo (that's a lot of
alliteration).  From there to Camino de Oriente, the former end of the city in
the late 1990s, an uninterrupted string of car dealerships light up the night
sky, and a blitz of advertising proffer everything from designer clothes to
imported Italian shoes to advise for investing in Nicaragua's inchoate stock
market.  The Centro Comercial, a broad and uniquely Nicaraguan market I used to
frequent when doing my household errands in 2001 now pales besides the bigger,
brighter, and glitzier shopping centers that have sprouted on all sides.  As a
Peace Corps volunteer, the Plaza Inter was the fanciest place on the block.
Three years later, Metro Centro dwarfed it, and in 2006 Siman threatens to do
the same to Metro Centro.

Who is fueling all this consumption?  Clearly, Managua's capitalist class has
enough faith in Nicaraguan consumers to invest the millions and dollars that
make the new Managua possible.  Chalk a bit of it up to the Miami Nicas who
spent the revolution in self-imposed Floridian exile, now returned with keen
business acumen and enough dollars to throw around in businesses that make
sense.  But a lot of it's coming from overseas too, thanks to broadening global
financial markets and developing-world savvy venture capitalists.  I'd like to
think Joshua and I have played an important role in it as well, as over 18,000
travelers have used Josh's and my Moon Handbooks:Nicaragua to pick their way
through Central America's most interesting country.

Two earthquakes, a fire, and lots and lots of war have kept Managua from
reaching its potential, but it rumbles onward, headed for bigger and better
horizons that seem to lead continuously to the south.  It will never be a Rome
or Athens or even a Tunis.  But Managua, wholly unique, unlikably likable, is
evolving.  On behalf of my in-laws, who have lived there since long before the
earthquake that pulled it to the ground, and on behalf of Ericka and I, who
call it home for ourselves:  Rumble on, Managua, rumble on.