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makeshift
ARSENAL
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since 1996
full text version 1.2
author - Lowry
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The content of this file details extremely dangerous and illegal methods of
making tried and true improvised explosives and weaponry etc. The explosives
are far from safe, and by doing so your life is at risk. This file requires
common sence to understand and if you are lacking in that department you
should look elsewhere. You hold responsability for your own actions and
nothing you see on this sight should actually be done for your own sake.
The original location of this file has been deleted time and time again due
to "unacceptable information" so i decided to use the format of an easy
download that can be freely distrubuted throughout the world wide web, so
feel free to take this file or parts of, and add it into your site as long
as proper credit is given.
This "full text" version obviously contains no pictures, The full version of
Makeshift Arsenal contains over 60 photos and diagrams with a section
devoted to before, during and after homemade explosion photo's.. Download
the full photo version free at http://explosives.com.bi
- --Lowry
Index
1. EXPLOSIVES
1.1 - acetone peroxide
1.2 - expanding fishhook
1.3 - HMTD
1.4 - hydrogen balloons
1.5 - explosive putty
1.6 - matchbox bomb
1.7 - bolt bomb
1.8 - blackpowder
1.9 - permanganate flash
1.10 - rifle primers
1.11 - ammonium nitrate explosives
1.12 - smokeless powder
2. SMOKE BOMBS
2.1 - potassium permanganate + glycerine
2.2 - potassium nitrate + sugar
2.3 - ammonium nitrate + newspaper
2.4 - smokeless powder + PVC solvent
2.5 - ping pong ball + Al foil
2.6 - chlorine granules + antifreeze
3. PRESSURE BOTTLE EXPLOSIONS
3.1 - dry ice
3.2 - chlorine bomb
3.3 - acid + metal
3.4 - baking soda + vinegar
4. ROCKETS
4.1 - shotshell rocket
4.2 - estes skyrocket
4.3 - masking tape rocket
4.4 - matchstick rocket
5. IMPROVISED WEAPONRY
5.1 - rocket launcher
5.2 - matchbox claymore
5.3 - semi-auto sluggun
5.4 - R.C tank
5.5 - spudgun
5.6 - rock-flinger
5.7 - glove gun
5.8 - blow darts
5.9 - shanghai
5.10 - sling shot
6. FUSE/WICK & IGNITION DEVICES
6.1 - salt petre fuse
6.2 - blackpowder fuse
6.3 - electric ignition
6.4 - party poppers
6.5 - insence sticks
6.6 - bought fuse
6.7 - sparklers
7. INCENDIARYS
7.1 - napalm
7.2 - thermite
7.3 - shotshell tracer
7.4 - chlorine firebomb
7.5 - petrol bomb
7.6 - naphthalene
8. FUN THINGS TO MAKE AT SCHOOL
8.1 - blow darts
8.2 - spitball launcher / exploding pen
8.3 - pen crossbow
9. KILLING YOUR NEIGHBOURS CAT
9.1 - aspirin
9.2 - snare
9.3 - mouse trap variations
9.4 - explosive trap
9.5 - steel traps
9.6 - cat products / taking the trophy
10. EASY TRICKS AND TECHNIQUES
10.1 - things that explode in fires
10.2 - making a bang with a match head
10.3 - sparkler in a bottle
1. EXPLOSIVES
1.1 - ACETONE PEROXIDE
(tricycloacetone peroxide)
1. Go to the bank and take $20 out
2. Head to the nearest chemist/pharmacy, go up to the counter and ask for 6%
peroxide, the person will take you to where it is, buy as much as wanted -
$1.50 per 100ml. NOTE- all $ are Australian.
3. next get back into your car and go to the hardware store (BBC, Mitre10
etc.), here you ask for acetone, they will get it for you - $7.50 for 750ml.
Hydrochloric acid will also be here, you may get it here or go to another
hardware store , just ask for hydrochloric acid - $7 for 2.5 litres of 30%
HCl.
4. You now have all the chemicals needed. How easy was that.
Below shows the necessary chemicals. Note the two bottles to the right and
the layer of crystals on the bottom, this is 15hrs into the reaction.
5. Go home and find a large glass jar to mix the chemicals.
6. pour 200ml peroxide into glass, to this add 150ml of acetone than 50ml
hydrochloric acid.
7. Stir these mixed chemicals for 2mins than put into the fridge, leave for
a good 3 days.
8. After 3 days all the crystals of A.P should have formed out of the
mixture and formed a thick layer of white crystals in the bottom of the jar.
9. Now is time to filter the crystals out of the solution, do this by
folding a single piece of newspaper in half diagonally then in half again ,
place this in the mouth of a large jar and pour the mix in and let filter.
10. Once filtered you should have a substantial quantity of crystals in the
bottom of the paper. These dried crystals at this point are extremely
dangerous, they are friction, heat and shock sensitive, you will now need to
be careful to avoid any of these.
Characteristics
NOTE - The below information on acetone peroxide is not original to this
file and was taken from a questionable source.
There are two forms of acetone peroxide: A dimer and a trimer. Both are
high explosives and both are dangerous to handle. The trimer has about 80%
the power of TNT.
A quantity the size of a pea in contact with a flame will burn
instantaneously with a small 'pop'
and producing a fireball.
AP has been responsible for an alarming number of maiming due to
it's friction sensitivity and high power. It is relatively benign when
unconfined, but any sign of confinement will ensure that ignition will
rapidly give rise to detonation.
Dimer Form :
Acetonediperoxide, Dimeric Acetone-peroxide, Acetonedimer Peroxide
Cyclodiacetone Peroxide or Dicycloacetone Peroxide.
Trimer Form :
Acetonetriperoxide, Trimeric Acetoneperoxide, Acetonetrimer Peroxide
Cyclotriacetone Peroxide or Tricycloacetone Peroxide.
Formula : C6H12O4
Brisance by sand test - 30.1 g sand crushed when 0.4 grams was initiated
by 0.2 grams mercury fulminate (48 grams crushed by 0.4 grams TNT).
Impact sensitivity is 3" with 2kg weight (30" for TNT).
Volatility 66.4% lost at room temperature after 14 days - complete
volatilisation in 3 hours at
75 degrees C.
Both forms are heat, impact and friction sensitive.
For the trimeric form,
Brissance - Phillips - 0.4 g initiated with 0.2 g Mercury fulminate crushed
34.1 g (48.0 g - TNT).
Volatility - complete loss after 40 days at 50 degrees C.
Detonation velocity 5290 m/sec in 6.3mm diameter column - density 1.2, 3065
m/sec in 15mm dia column - density 0.68.
Friction sensitivity - extreme.
Impact sensitivity - 4" with 500 gram weight.
Initiation capability - 0.05 grams compressed at 250kg/cm2 initiated PETN.
Minimum charge to initiate TNT at density of 1.35 was 0.16 grams.
Power, a 10 gram sample gave 250 cc expansion in Trauzl Test (285 cc for
TNT).
1.2 - EXPANDING FISH HOOK
A sure way to make your next fishing trip more exciting is to make some
exploding fishhooks. It i also quite simple if you have the materials.
NEEDED - large cartridge case, primary explosive, party popper, epoxy,
silicone sealer, hook, line & sinker.
STEPS -
1. Knock the primer out of the case.
2. Take explosive out of party popper and thread the string through the
flashhole, so that the explosive end is inside the case.
3. Tie hook to string and seal indent where primer was with the sealer.
4. The case is now filled with explosive (peroxides work well, gunpowder is
not enough).
5. A sinker with line attached is pushed into the neck of the case and neck
is filled with epoxy.
Now that its made the rest is simple. Tie it to the end of your line, bait
up and cast in, now just wait for the
......THUMP.....bubbles......upside down fish.
1.3 - HMTD
(hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine)
This explosive is very simular to acetone peroxide, perhaps a little less
sensitive, however is very sensitive to contaminants and must be thougherly
washed before being used. If the contaminants are left in the material even
slight increases in heat will be ample for detonation, this means even
putting it out into the sun is dangerous. It is also harder to make than A.P
and if the correct mixture of the 3 components are not added right no
explosive will form, therefore i cannot guarantee the mixture below will
work, trial and error will have to be used to obtain the optimal quantities
of each chemical in the solution as i havnt been able to successfully
replicate it every time.
The 3 chemicals needed are 6% Hydrogen peroxide, Hexamine and Hydrochloric
acid. Peroxide is available at pharmacys ($1.50 per 100ml), Hexamine at
camping stores ($3 for 8 tablets) and 30% HCl at hardware stores ($7 for
2.5 litres). In a large glass jar add 100ml peroxide and 3 teaspoons of
crushed hexamine, stir until disolved and leave for 30min., now add 30ml of
HCl stir and sit in fridge overnight.
A considerable amount of fine white crystals should form out which are
filtered, washed and dried in the same fashion as acetone peroxide.
DETONATION VELOCITY = 4511 m/sec @ 0.88 g/cc , 5100 m/sec @ 1.1g/c
1.4 - HYDROGEN BALLOONS
Hydrogen is a very easily made, explosive gas. It also happens to be the
lightest element, therefore by using the method below it is possible to fill
a balloon with hydrogen which will float up into the air and explode when
ignited.
Take two bottles, one glass the other plastic, drill a hole through the lid
of the glass bottle and fix and seal a plastic tube, run the plastic tube
low through the side of the plastic bottle and seal with epoxy. The glass
bottle contains the reaction between aluminium and sodium hydroxide
(commonly sold as Caustic Soda in supermarkets $3.50 for 500 grams), It is
also possible to substatute sodium hydroxide for diluted hydrohloric acid.
This reaction produces hydrogen, which runs through the tube, into the
plastic bottle that is filled with water, the hydrogen gas bubbles through
the water and fills a balloon that is pulled over the neck of the plastic
bottle.
The second bottle full of water is used to condense any vapour that is with
the hydrogen. It is possible to do without it however the vapour will
condense in the balloon rendering it less boyant. By using the second bottle
you also have the advantage of being able to keep adding aluminium without
the balloon going down.
Once balloon is full, remove and tie. The balloon must be reliably ignited
or you will get a dud blast, ive found it best to run blackpowder up the
sticky side of masking tape, stick to side of balloon than attach the fuse
to the tape.
If youve done it all right these create a fireball, smoke cloud and a
supriseingly loud, deep BOOM high up in the air.
1.5 - AP PUTTY
This explosive putty is made by the combination of two other explosives,
those being acetone peroxide and double base smokeless powder.
First the smokeless powder is turned into a paste by combining 2 parts
powder to 3 parts acetone in a sealed glass jar, this is left
for 3 days, you should now be left with a black paste with a viscocity
slightly thicker than honey.
Pour the required amount of A.P into a bowl than slowly add the paste until
the mixture has a mouldable density than remove.
This is the explosive and to use just mould into a shape or around whatever,
insert fuse and let dry (acetone will readily evaporate). when it is rock
hard simply light fuse and run.
The conversion to the putty explosive is my favorite, due to being very
simple to purchase and make, able to be detonated via a simple fuse, no
shrapnel and very powerful. When you see what damage this can cause and
realise that it is solely from fast moving gas, you can see how effective
this is.
I cant be sure how the addition of the smokeless powder to the acetone
peroxide contributes to the explosion however it seems to raise the power.
This may be from several reasons. It raises the density of the explosive
resulting in more explosive per given volume. It increases the volume of gas
produced for as the smokeless powder burns it too generates large volumes of
gas. And also what i have been using is "double base" powder which is common
for shotgun and pistol loads, this powder is a mix of
nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine, There is divided opinion between if
double base powders are able to be detonated as a high explosive however
this may be another reason for the high power of this putty explosive.
1.6 - MATCHBOX BOMB
Simply made by cutting the striker off the matchbox and sliding it down in
front of the match heads in the box.
It is slipped back into its cover and heavily bound with masking tape. it
will explode when hit sharply on either end or chucked fast against a solid
object.
1.7 - BOLT BOMB
By compressing powdered matchheads between two bolts in a nut, a basic
impact ignited explosive is made.
By throwing against a hard surface the matchheads will ignite blasting off
one of the bolts.
1.8 - BLACKPOWDER
Blackpowder is probly the most common explosive to make at home, however
making good blackpowder is hard and takes a lot of work.
The 3 components of blackpowder are Potassium nitrate ( most pharmacys will
order this - $15 for 500gm or as a fertilizer coded 13-0-38 - $25 for 25
kilo), Sulfur (pharmacy, or cheaper at a garden shop) and charcoal (burn
something, preferably a soft wood). NOTE - all $ are Australian
These are powdered to as finer consistancy as possible and intimately mixed
in this ratio - 15:2:3. To achieve a reasonably fast burn rate there is the
CIA method.
The CIA method takes advantage of potassium nitrate's ability to easily
dissolve in water and its ability to then again recrystalize around the
charcoal, Forming a somewhat intimate mixture. The CIA method is also known
as the precipitation method.
To make BP with the CIA method you will need to place your black powder into
a saucepan than add a
sufficent amount of water to make it into a sludgy mess. Place the saucepan
on a hotplate and turn the heat onto low. Slowly bring it to a boil, then
turn off the heat. Don't leave it there to boil away as the KNO3 actually
evaporates, leaving you with a batch of black powder that won't burn.
Put the mess into a saucepan containing some chilled alcohol. Why do we do
this?
Well...as everyone who knows the properties of metals will tell you, heating
a metal up (in this case potassium), then as quickly as possible cooling it
down (this is called quenching), makes the metal form tiny crystals, and
tiny is what we want. Once it has cooled down put your BP onto a piece of
newspaper a few layers thick.
Smear it out so you can get it as thin as possible on the paper. Once you
are happy that it is nice and thin
(preferably around a 1cm or less) put a piece of newspaper on top, so it has
paper on both sides, then place it on a piece of wood. Make sure the wood is
hard as a soft piece of wood will tend to flex and not create as much
pressure.
Next, put a piece of wood on the other side and clamp both together as hard
as possible. Leave this sit in a
nice sunny spot for a week.
When you go to collect it, it should be nice and hard. Break this up into
small
pieces, it should be still damp and when its like this i push it trough a
mesh the size of a window screen.This gives the powder sharp edges making it
burn faster.The black powder made from this method is quite limited.
It is usually limited to making blackmatch, priming, and other things that
don't require a fast burn rate.
1.9 - PERMANGANATE FLASH
The components needed for this explosive are Potassium permanganate
(pharmacy $3.50 for 50grams), Aluminium powder (Al foil in a coffee
grinder), and Sulphur (pharmacy, garden shop).
These are ground as fine as possible, seperately, as this mix is friction
sensitive, and combined in this ratio - 3:2:1 / potassium
permanganate:aluminium:sulphur
The resulting powder will readily ignite via a fuse and emit a blinding
white flash, the finer the aluminium the faster the composition will be.
1.10 - RIFLE PRIMERS
The explosive used in rifle primers (most commonly - lead styphnate)
detonates violently with no confinement. The lead styphnate is also combined
with various oxidisers & fuels to hotten and lengthen the flame.Watch for
very old primers as they may contain potassium chlorate based mixtures.
Primers are available at all gun shops and are used to reload cartridges.
Also available are percussion caps for use on muzzel loading weapons, these
are larger than rifle primers and contain no anvil, these were most commonly
loaded with mercury fulminate.
Lead styphnate (a mustard coloured powder) can be extracted from primers by
soaking the primers in acetone, this disolves the glue. Than pick the anvil
out with a pin and scrape the wet explosive out and leave to dry. Shotshell
primers are completely different and are completely enclosed except for an
inbuilt flashhole thats sealed with a waxy substance, i cannot see a safe
way of extracting the explosive from shotshell primers.
Small rifle primers also make excellent explosive ammunition for slug guns.
The small primers are an exact fit for the .177cal bore and if shot against
anything hard they will detonate loudly. Although i havnt tried small pistol
primers out of a slug gun, they may be better than the rifle primers because
of the thinner "cup" to increase sensitivity to the firing pin which may
give detonation on softer targets.
These primers can also be added to small pipe bombs for added power. Just
fill the pipe with primers, than add powder into all the gaps. Pipe bombs
made this way are considerably more powerful and blast out a lot of shrapnel
from the used primer cup and anvils.
LEAD STYPHNATE - Det velocity = 5200 m/sec.
MERCURY FULMINATE - Det velocity = 5400 m/sec.
1.11 - AMMONIUM NITRATE EXPLOSIVES
Ammonium nitrate is a common chemical that can be used to form very easily
made and powerful high and low explosives.
Ammonium nitrate can be accessed at farm supply stores and bulk fertilizer
dealers, a pure AN fertilizer is available in Australia under the name of
"Nitram" and it is also sold at farm supply in the blasting grade called
"nitropril". Only use pure AN for all explosives.
AN as an explosive component has one major drawback, it is very hygroscopic,
meaning that it will attract and absorb moisture from the air desensitising
or destroying the explosive. This of course is overcome by containing the AN
and finished explosive in an airtight container.
Ammonpulver
Ammonpulver is a German name given to a low explosive fuel oxidiser mix
containing solely ammonium nitrate and charcoal, this composition contains
an enourmous amount of energy for a simple physical mix with power close to
that of double base powder containing a considerable amount of
nitroglycerine. However even though it contains the energy, its burn rate is
slow and therefore is not suitable for bursting explosives.
Possible uses for this explosive are big bore gun propelant and rocket fuel.
It has advantages over blackpowder in this role because of the increased
energy, flashless and emits only a small amount of blueish smoke.
To make this composition -
finely powder ammonium nitrate and willow charcoal to as finer consistancy
as possible (finer the faster and more efficient) and mix to a ratio of 8
parts AN to 2 parts charcoal.
Once thougherly mixed add methylated spirits until it clings together like
thick mud.
strain this paste between two flat surfaces and leave to dry.. If your in
the colder wetter months of the year dont bother as it will never dry.
Once hard break it up into small granules and its ready to use.
ANFO
ANFO is the most commonly used commercial and agricultural explosive as it
is cheap and does a good job, this is the explosive farmers use to blow
stumps out of the ground and mines also use it on mass. ANFO is the perfect
earth mover with great heaving power brough about by a lot of effective
energy and relatively low detonation velocity.
ANFO (ammonium nitrate fuel oil) can be manufactured by mixing 17 parts
prilled AN with 1 part diesel and left one hour to let it soak in, it is
than ready to use.
ANFO reaches its maximum effective energy at approx. 5.5% diesel remainder
prilled AN.
It is sensitive to detonation from 2% to 12% at which point the prills are
saturated and will not hold anymore oil.
The Det velocity is dependant on the density of the loading and the
confinement of the charge but typically detonates within the range of 3000
to 4500 m/sec. The denser and more confined the higher the DV, it will have
a density of approx. 0.8g/cc in the prilled form.
Properly mixed anfo will detonate to 50 grams of high explosive.
ANNM
ANNM (ammonium nitrate nitromethane) is a very powerful and sensitive binary
explosive that holds more power and is more brisant than any commonly
available commercial explosive (with the exception of PETN in detonators and
det. cord).
To make ANNM 1 part pure nitromethane is added to 5 parts powdered AN and
left 1 hr to soak in, in sealed container.
This explosive is very sensitive and ive never failed to detonate it using
either of the peroxide explosives, to guarantee initiation a matchbox full
of the explosive putty should be used however you could probably get by with
half this amount.
ANNM plastique
This is a very useful explosive containing the same qualities as strait ANNM
but in a plastic mouldable form.
To make first add 1 part smokeless powder to 2 parts nitromethane in a
sealed glass container, the nitromethane being a powerful solvent will break
down the nitrocellulose and you will be left with a black sticky substance
that will act like jelly.
Now finely powder AN and add 1 part of this "jelly" to 3 parts AN and knead
together with gloved hands (I got some terrific headaches after playing with
this stuff, not sure what was the cause of it however nitro compounds such
as nitromethane and nitroglycerine (from double based powder) are known to
cause it in which case the nitroglycerine may have seperated and was
absorbed into my skin or too many nitromethane fumes, so i suggest gloves
and gas mask)..
1.12 - SMOKELESS POWDER
Smokeless powder is a nitrocellulose based propellant that is now the
universal propellant used in most modern cartridges (you know, the things
guns run on, "bullets" you may say).
It is possible to make nitrocellulose, however it involves the mixing of
sulphuric acid, nitric acid and cotton, ive never done it so im not going to
attempt to explain it to you. However its not that hard to obtain, you can
buy it by the kilogram at gun shops for the purpose of reloading ammunition
or simply empty a few cartridges, this assumes you know someone with a
firearms licence or have one yourself, as gunpowder is not sold to just
anyone.
Theres an enormous amount of types and brands of smokeless powder all with
different burn characteristics, one thing they do have in common is that the
burn rate increases with confinement, that means if you light a pile up out
in the open it will burn slowly with a large orange flame but confined its
burn rate increases considerably.
SP comes in two common forms, that is single base which contain strait
nitrocellulose and other various nonenergetic additives, the other, double
base which contains nitrocellulose colloided with varying amounts of
nitroglycerine. These two types can then be divided up into grain types
which are commonly flake, disc, tubular and ball, flake will commonly be the
fastest and is primarily used in shotshells and other compressed powder
rounds.
Examples of single base propellant are - win 760, AR2213, IMR 4198
Examples of double base propellant are - Hercules bullseye (fastest SP with
highest NG content available), green-dot, red-dot and win 500HS.
One very interesting characteristic of double based powders is their ability
to detonate as a high explosive. That means, if excited by a detonator the
powder will dramatically increase. (look at "before,during & after pictures"
for the test i conducted to come to this conclusion).
2. SMOKE BOMBS
It is very simple to make effective homemade smokebombs. All the methods
below produce thick cloads of smoke with little to no flame.
2.1 - POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE
Mix a 1:2 ratio of potasium permanganate and glycerine in a matchbox, shut
the box and shake. The delay will depend on the temperature of the day and
grain size of the P.P crystals, the hotter the day and smaller the crystals
the shorter the delay. after the delay the box will fizz and emit a cloud of
white smoke.
2.2 - POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR
Mix equal parts potassium nitrate and sugar in a metal or glass bowl, this
is than carefully melted over a hot plate. This molten mix is poured into
the container (ive found toilet rolls are a good size) , a fuse is inserted
and it is left to set. The toffee like mix that you now have is the smoke
bomb, and is ready for ignition.
2.3 - AMMONIUM NITRATE + NEWSPAPER
Probably the easiest and most effective of the homemade bombs is this one.
Its become my favourite. All thats needed to do is make a strong solution of
water and ammonium nitrate, in this soak a newspaper, when saturated take
out and hang in the sun to dry.
When dry roll up as tightly as possible and tie up with string. the bomb is
completed.
just ignite the end of the roll of treated newspaper and it will fizz like a
rocket and blast out thick clouds of white smoke.
2.4 - SMOKELESS POWDER + PVC SOLVENT
In a bowl add some smokeless powder, to this powder add just enough PVC
sovent/cement to bind the powder together, mould this mix into the shape
desired and let dry.
This cant be ignited by bare flame or it will simply burst into the flame,
whats needed is something red hot such as a match that has just been blown
out or a red hot wire.
2.5 - PINGPONG BALL + ALUMINIUM FOIL
This is probably the easiest to make and quite effective, made by wrapping a
pingpong ball with foil, fashion a handle out of excess foil and heat over a
flame.
When it starts to fizz chuck away and either smoke will pour out of it or if
your unlucky it will burst into flames.
2.6 - CHLORINE GRANULES + ANTIFREEZE
This is another very easily made one, by combining. 2 parts pool chlorine
with 3 parts antifreeze in an unsealed container a chemical rection will
take place in around 10 to 15 seconds and produce large volumes of toxic
white smoke. The size of these bombs can be quite big because of the ease of
aquiring the bulk materials.
3. PRESSURE BOTTLE EXPLOSIONS
The easiest explosive to make in the home would have to be a pressure bottle
explosion, these bombs use the increase in pressure in a bottle brought
about by a chemical reaction to burst the container creating a loud boom.
Common sence plays a large part in the construction of these devices as the
delays before the explosion can be unreliable. Always test the reaction
before attempting one of these if its too fast or too slow its too
dangerous. Once one of these are set up dont go near the bloody thing until
it has gone off and if it doesnt seem to be working youll have to shoot it
or something, again USE COMMON SENCE.
Shown here are the easiest of this form of bomb.
3.1 - DRY ICE + WATER
Simply put, a plastic bottle is 1/5 filled with dry ice (solid CO2) water
is added, than quickly the cap is replaced on the bottle.
The dry ice will melt releasing carbon dioxide which will pressurise the
bottle until it bursts. The delay depends greatly upon the size of the
chunks of ice and the temp. of the water, the smaller the parts of ice and
hotter the water the faster the reaction and shorter the delay.
3.2 - CHLORINE BOMB
The popular chlorine bomb uses the reaction between pool chlorine granules
(65% calsium hypochlorite) and one of various other reactive chemicals,
these can be - antifreeze/glycerine (lot of smoke), brake fluid (flame),
hexamine/sulphur (long delay), thats all ive tried but im sure theres a lot
more. To use, a bottle is filled 1/6 way with chlorine than the other
chemical is added, cap replaced than get away from it.
3.3 - ACID + METAL
This uses the reaction between an acid and a reactive metal. The easiest
would have to be hydrochloric acid and aluminium. The acid may have to be
diluted with water if the reaction is too quick. The bottle is 1/6th filled
with acid than the required amount of aluminium is added, cap screwed on and
run. The reaction produces hydrogen which fills and bursts the bottle (for a
use of this explosive gas see hydrogen balloons.
3.4 - BAKING SODA + VINEGAR
The reaction between baking soda and vinegar is far too fast to be used in
the same fashion as the other methods on this page. using a 1 foot x 6 inch
pvc pipe, glue on an end cap and use a screw cap for the other end. fill the
pipe 2/3 with baking soda. fill an open toped tin with vinegar and sit onto
the baking soda, now screw cap back on being VERY carful.
This device must be set up and knocked over when it is intended to go off,
you decide how this is done.
4. ROCKETS
4.1 - SHOTSHELL ROCKET
If the you have access to the components this is quite an easy rocket to
make in the home.
The casing is made from a deprimed shotshell case, preferably of the "high
brass" type. The propellant is simply a mix of 1 part blackpowder to 4 parts
smokeless powder, these powders are finely powdered than dampened with
acetone. the rubbery mass is than pressed into a shotshell wad (easily
bought for reloading purposes) and left in the sun to dry.
When dry you will have a solid block of powerful propellant that provides
more thrust and power than any commercial blackpowder based rocket.
Next take a spent shotshell and knock the primer out. The hole left will act
as a nozel for the rocket. Epoxy is than smeared onto the side of the wad,
the wad full of propellant is can now be pushed down backwards into the
shell, epoxy is than added to the top of the wad and tissue is rammed into
the remainder of the shell and sealed shut with masking tape.
A 40-50cm piece of cane is taped to the side of the shell, the nozel is
filled with blackpowder to ignite the propellant and a fuse is taped to the
powder, and the rocket is complete.
To use - the cane is pushed loosly into the ground and fuse is ignited.. The
rocket is remarkably fast and reaches a great altitude, most of the time you
wont be able to keep your eye on it.
4.2 - ESTES SKYROCKET
Estes rocket engines can be bought at most hobby shops, although expensive
($5+ per shot) they can be used to make an impressive skyrocket. This rocket
takes advantage of the ejection charge in the engine, this charge detonates
at the maximum altitude of the rocket and ignites the main charge of
blackpowder and stars. These stars are most easily made from smokeless
powder and blackpowder binded with acetone. Pure nitrocellulose stars can be
used to give soft orange fireballs however they have a habit of being blown
out, by adding a bit of powdered blackpowder the stars will be a more
intense white colour with a lot less chance of going out.
making this rocket is as simple as fixing the engine into a cardboard tube,
taping a long cane to the side and filling the tube with a mix of the stars
mentioned above and blackpowder to burst the container..
4.3 - MASKING TAPE ROCKET
On some inch wide masking tape run a line of a fast smokeless powder strait
down the middle, than fold in half widthways and roll up into a straw shape.
Now bind the length with 1-2 layers of masking tape making sure one end is
sealed and the other open.
To stabalise this rocket a feather is taped to the open end.
Its easiest to launch this rocket out of a tube, simply place in a tube and
hit the oped end with a lit match, these are good for about 50 metres at the
best of times.
4.4 - MATCH ROCKET
For a dead easy little rocket to launch around these have to be the easiest.
Take two matches and a piece of tin foil 1.5" x 2". lay the matches onto the
foil end to end so that the head of one match is against the bottom of the
other. now roll the foil around the matches.
Once done make sure the match with the head poking out is a sliding fit
within the foil and the other isnt.
To fire, stick the matchead into the ground at a 45 degree angle and head
the foil around the bulge with another match.
5. IMPROVISED WEAPONRY
5.1 - ROCKET LAUNCHER
This weapon is possibly the most impressive and most dangerous to use on
this page. Although basic in design it utilizes simply found materials to
make a devastating weapon.
The launcher itself is simply an aluminium pipe, partially blocked at one
end leaving a 1/3 inch pipe out the back for the wire. make a hollow
handle, within this handle is a 9v battery and a push button switch. a wire
runs frow the battery, through the switch and around to the back of the
launcher then through the 1/3 inch pipe. The electrical wire connects to a
rocket igniter and estes rocket engine.
The blockage at the back end is vital, as the bought rocket engines are
designed for vertical flight the initial thrust is not powerful enough to
quickly gain the velocity needed for horizontal flight, and will simply
plough into the ground after a few metres. However with the back end
partially blocked the gas from the rocket engine will pressurise the tube as
the rocket is launched in the same fashion as a bullet fired from a rifle
giving the rocket a far flatter trajectory.
The rocket is powered by a bought estes D class engine, these can be found
in most hobby shops however are rather expensive at around $7-8 Australian
per shot, trying to improvise a homemade rocket engine only increases the
already high risk of an accident.
The rocket is detonated from the ejection charge in the rocket at a set
distance, this is the safest and most reliable way.
The rockets body is made from thin aluminium tubing (again available at
hobby shops), The rocket engines ejection charge is drilled into (clay on
top of engine) until you hit the black stuff (blackpowder). The engine is
than glued with araldite or equivalent into the Al pipe, the pipe is filled
with the explosive charge eg. blackpowder and nose cone fitted.
To stabalize the rocket you can do two things that I know of , they are add
fins or add spin to the rocket. The method below to some extent does both.
The fins are cut from a flexable plastic ( I used the cover off a ring
binder) and glued with a strong epoxy to the sides of the rocket. when the
rocket is pushed into the launcher the fins are folded around the body of
the rocket.
5.2 - MATCHBOX CLAYMORE
A minature claymore mine ... or to be politically correct a minature
claymore command detonated anti personel fragmentation device due to mines
now being banned, can be made around the basic explosive being the explosive
putty for the method of making this explosive see the "explosives" section.
First the explosive putty is moulded in a matchbox so you left with a rock
hard block of the explosive, another matchbox is filled with a mix of
nitrocellulose paste (smokeless powder disolved in acetone) and BB's (these
can be bought at gun stores for use in BB guns, no licence is required) use
just enough of this paste to bind the BB's together. If the not so
politically correct tripwire version is wanted a small centrefire rifle case
(no wider than a .222 Rem. case) with explosive out of party popper
inserted through flashhole is pushed right throught the centre of the block
of BB's so that the explosive will ignite when the string is pulled. If an
electrically detonated device is wanted simply push a rocket igniter into
the explosive putty as its drying. Once this mix is dried smear some
nitrocellulose paste on the surface of one side of the block of explosive
and stick the block of BB's to it. It can than be glued to a steel plate in
the same fashion.
This device contains approx. 300 BB's in front of around 20 grams of
explosive. As a matter of interest proper claymores contain 700 steel balls
in front of 700 grams of C4.