[HN Gopher] One of France's oldest butter producers makes 380 to...
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One of France's oldest butter producers makes 380 tons per year
[video]
 
Author : zdw
Score  : 125 points
Date   : 2022-12-03 15:31 UTC (2 days ago)
 
web link (www.youtube.com)
w3m dump (www.youtube.com)
 
| [deleted]
 
| hn_throwaway_99 wrote:
| Wow, amazing they still use the butter paddles to shape and mold
| the butter manually.
| 
| There is a great series on YouTube about a Victorian-era cook in
| an aristocratic house, they had an episode on butter,
| https://youtu.be/DV7hop4m0YQ , and the paddles and molding
| process looked exactly the same as the beginning of this video.
 
  | AlanYx wrote:
  | They're using the paddles mostly for the look of the end
  | product, judging from the patting machine processing shown at
  | the beginning of the video.
  | 
  | In Elaine Khosrova's book, "Butter: A Rich History", IIRC she
  | claims that there is a difference in consistency when wooden
  | paddle handling and shaping is used exclusively after the
  | churning stage. That's not really what they're doing here;
  | they're just giving the look of it having been done.
  | Understandable though if they're producing so much.
 
| tmilard wrote:
| Nice to see someone so in love and dedicated to a single product.
 
| sendfoods wrote:
| Eater has been releasing some incredible food-related mini-
| documentaries! This one is great, too. Gotta get my hands on some
| of this butter
 
| jcims wrote:
| I just want to dip a spoon in at every step and sample it.
| 
| About two years ago I bought just about every butter at the local
| grocery and started sampling them. (COVID hobby i guess) and it
| completely changed my relationship with butter. I found a few
| that were clear favorites...to the point where one of them I can
| slice off a thin pat and just eat it neat.
| 
| Butter in the abstract is loved, but somehow it has been
| relegated to commodity status (at least around here). It's fun
| digging into it and realizing there's a whole landscape out
| there.
 
  | kleinapple wrote:
  | Could you share the fruits of your labor with us?
 
  | rhapsodic wrote:
  | Would you mind sharing which brands were your favorites?
 
  | oppositelock wrote:
  | This really brings back memories of my childhood. I grew up on
  | a small family farm, and all of our butter came from the cream
  | from our own cows. Not only are there huge differences between
  | kinds of butter, there are also huge seasonal differences
  | between the milk produced by cows, and hence, the butter. When
  | dandelions are in bloom, it's going to be yellower and more
  | fragrant, and definitely more sour when the sorrel is
  | sprouting. It was always a surprise what you'd get, even when
  | using the same process.
 
  | sophacles wrote:
  | I remember when I first learned that butter is more than "just
  | butter". In my case I was at the local import shop and the guy
  | working the cheese counter offered me a sample of some cheese
  | he was recommending. I said "oh that would be good on a slice
  | of bread with some butter and a bit of thyme". His response was
  | "of course, but which butter?", and proceeded to walk me
  | through a rapid crash course in butters with samples. I
  | remember it well because we ended up with a group we called
  | "butter club" - a group of foodies that took turns hosting
  | dinners and all recruited by the question "of course, but what
  | type of butter?"
  | 
  | Such a fun little slice of "the world is a big place".
 
| joshu wrote:
| If you're in the South Bay and maybe SF, the Frenchery imports
| and distributes the butter from Bordier. It is very, very good.
 
| nsenifty wrote:
| Claudia Romeo from Food Insider interviewed the super
| enthusiastic owner of this place. https://youtu.be/ZyXUzhTn0kI
 
  | gjvc wrote:
  | This is a much better watch, and features Jean-Yves Bordier
  | before he retired.
 
| frozencell wrote:
| Why are there many post about France on HN?
 
  | SebJansen wrote:
  | Why are there many posts about the US on HN?
 
| zahma wrote:
| That stuff is delicious.
 
| sctgrhm wrote:
| Very fun to see this here ! I've been to Bordier's shop in St
| Malo, they do make lovely butter. If you know a bit about France
| and Brittany, you'll know that "les bretons" are very much fond
| of their butter. Check out how they make the famous kouign amann
| and if you get a chance, do have a taste if the quantities of
| sugar and butter don't put you off ;-)
 
  | cwizou wrote:
  | Even as a "Normand", I have to agree that this indeed lovely
  | butter ;)
  | 
  | To give a bit of context, Bordier is considered very high-
  | end/premium butter that you find mostly at cheesemongers (the
  | large ones you see in the video, they get cut on demand) and
  | Michelin star restaurants (the small cones for example). It's
  | not particularly cheap, but unless you have a local small farm
  | around (doing it the old way, which is probably not much of a
  | thing), it's about as good as butter can get.
  | 
  | I stumbled upon that video a few days ago and was a bit
  | surprised that even their "standardised" products (the
  | "plaquettes", aka the rectangles you'll see around the end with
  | striations on them) were still shaped manually.
 
  | bombela wrote:
  | In the bay area, mademoiselle Colette has amazing kouign-amann!
  | 
  | They use beurre d'Isigny too.
 
    | nestorD wrote:
    | I was surprised to discover that several cafes in Berkeley
    | carry kouign-Amann!
 
  | galgot wrote:
  | Btw, is salted butter a Brittany thing ? Here in my local
  | epicerie in Paris suburb, can only find "Demi-sel" :(
 
    | sctgrhm wrote:
    | The three basic butters would be "doux" (unsalted), "demi-
    | sel" and "sale" although the latter does seem to be harder to
    | find in your run-of-the-mill markets and epiceries outside of
    | Brittany.
 
| Fiahil wrote:
| Ah ! I live within 20km of their factory. I would not have
| expected this on HN.
| 
| Their butter is, indeed, very good. I always get one of the first
| spring butter, when the cows get the fresh grass. Creamy and
| absolutely delicious !
 
| jmcgough wrote:
| yesss I love Bordier, showed this to my partner recently to
| explain to her why I love nice imported French butters. Traveling
| there really made me fall in love with French food and the
| mentality behind a lot of it.
| 
| Part of what Europe does right is its legal certification process
| for traditionally made foods, "protected designation of origin" (
| https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Protected_designation_of_origi...).
| At nicer import stores you can find San Marzano tomatoes with a
| DOP stamp, so you know it's the real deal. In America we've had a
| few decades of a race to the bottom, where quality slowly
| declined in order to generate more profits, until what we have
| now is unrecognizable from what it originally was.
 
  | riffraff wrote:
  | while I'm a big supporter of EU PDO labels they are not
  | perfect, they (generally) do not guarantee quality, and they
  | have the negative effect of "crystallizing" something, which is
  | a bit sad and paradoxical. Still, better than nothing.
 
    | Qahlel wrote:
    | | crystallizing
    | 
    | can you please explain what you mean by this?
 
      | wnissen wrote:
      | Once you get a product, like Camembert, or a wine like
      | Burgundy, with a big AOP apparatus around it, there is
      | little room for experimentation. In Burgundy you can't
      | plant anything except Chardonnay for white wine that's
      | going to be labeled Burgundy. Someone has an idea that
      | sauvignon blanc might do well in a famous vineyard? Too
      | bad, instead of Grand Cru Burgundy you're going to have to
      | sell it as generic "Vin de France", which is typically box
      | wine.
      | 
      | If anyone hasn't tried AOP French butter, it is really
      | wonderful. The cows are pastured or fed forage, no grain,
      | so it has a lot of flavor. There's a reason the French
      | enjoy tartines and "beurre jambon" (sandwiches with
      | preserves and ham, respectively), with good bread and
      | butter it's a revelation. Bordier is rightly famous but
      | any, e.g., Beurre d'Isigny is going to be worlds above 99%
      | of butters made in the US.
 
        | telesilla wrote:
        | >Bordier is rightly famous
        | 
        | Oh, the smoked butter (sel fume) from a small specialist
        | farm in Bretagne.. stuff of dreams.
 
        | ThePowerOfFuet wrote:
        | Beurre fume or sel fume? (Is the salted butter itself
        | smoked, or is it butter made with smoked salt?)
 
        | telesilla wrote:
        | I believe it's sel fume: salted butter, using smoked
        | salt.
        | 
        | https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoked_salt
 
      | sujinge9 wrote:
      | They probably mean that the certification requires very
      | rigid processes which means any variation would not get the
      | stamp of approval so innovation and experimentation is
      | discouraged.
 
        | cmarschner wrote:
        | There are plenty of examples where the young renegades
        | veered off and produced their own products in an AOC or
        | DOC region. It just means the onus of marketing is upon
        | themselves.
        | 
        | It just makes more sense to create a brand that binds
        | hundreds of producers together by standards. Everyone on
        | average is better off.
 
  | pj_mukh wrote:
  | Where do you buy this imported butter in America?! I must know.
 
    | rajamaka wrote:
    | Small specialty international stores, where everything is
    | stupidly expensive but also stupidly delicious.
 
  | soperj wrote:
  | > At nicer import stores you can find San Marzano tomatoes with
  | a DOP stamp
  | 
  | I can get these at Costco
 
  | xwolfi wrote:
  | Yeah the food situation in the US is pretty sad. I rmb going
  | there in an exchange and the family dad beeming with pride
  | "look I bought you a French baguette", and suffice to say... it
  | was neither French nor a baguette lol. It barely qualified as
  | food for animals.
 
    | yamtaddle wrote:
    | I live in a US city with a population over 2,000,000 that's
    | seemingly incapable of producing what would be a _very
    | mediocre_ loaf of bread in Paris, for under $12. Actually-
    | good bread simply cannot be had--there isn 't any. One
    | consequence of this is that it's impossible to get a decent
    | sandwich here for anything but crazy-high prices.
    | 
    | And don't get me started on the croissant situation. Ugh.
    | They're all too-big and disgustingly doughy (90% of them are
    | in this category), or burnt.
    | 
    | I have no idea why this is the case, but it is. Like I know
    | baguettes are price controlled so you can't compare those,
    | but I mean any bread at all that's decent and somewhat
    | affordable--simply not a thing here. You'd think someone
    | could do it, but evidently not.
 
      | spockz wrote:
      | I have been to the USA only twice, to San Francisco and to
      | New York, and the absence of flavour and substance in the
      | food is what really stuck with me. Everything was so bland
      | and generic and non filling. The two only exceptions were a
      | cheesecake at the Cheesecake Factory, and a chowder in some
      | small fish shop. And the latter only because I never had it
      | before.
      | 
      | I can really imagine all portions being over sized and
      | saturated with fat and sugar in an attempt to (over)
      | compensate with all its consequences.
      | 
      | And yes, proper fresh French baguette is worth a meal on
      | its own.
 
        | renox wrote:
        | Unfortunately even in France quite often a French
        | baguette isn't so 'proper', but when it is mmmmh.
        | 
        | I think I'll never forget the croissant I ate around San
        | Francisco, I had never seen such a big croissant! When
        | you think about the amount of butter there is already in
        | a normal croissant.. This one had probably enough
        | calories for half a day.
 
        | akiselev wrote:
        | It's something that I and almost every immigrant I know
        | struggles with. I moved to the US when I was a small
        | child but even I've got tons of memories of what tomatoes
        | and blueberries are supposed to taste like. Every
        | household in my extended family grows a lot of their own
        | food and I'm in the process of building out a green house
        | around my existing hydroponics setup to extend the
        | growing season to all year. For next year we're debating
        | buying a whole cow from a local rancher to split amongst
        | the family so we can have some semblance of control over
        | how the meat is grown.
        | 
        | I feel especially bad for those who immigrate from
        | tropical countries like Costa Rica. The quality and
        | variety of fruit there is completely insane compared to
        | the bland trash we have in the US.
 
      | version_five wrote:
      | I live in Montreal (a city with a large French influence)
      | and am regularly in France, and there is no comparison
      | between the bread or butter we get in Montreal vs what is
      | available everywhere in France. If you look you can find
      | decent bread - Montreal has the best overall bakery scene
      | I'm aware of outside France. I haven't found good butter
      | yet.
 
        | ska wrote:
        | Butter in produced in north america seems to be mostly
        | pretty bad. I think it has a lot to do with how milk is
        | marketed, low price is everything. So the dairies are
        | dominated by volume-over-quality, a ton of holstiens and
        | whatever cheapest feed can be found. Starting from there
        | doesn't lead anywhere good, for butter or cheese.
        | 
        | A friend who lived there (Montreal, or maybe it was when
        | they were in Ottawa?) told me the import duty on European
        | butter was 300%. So you can get some good imports, but
        | super expensive. And the local "artisinal" stuff is
        | mostly not as good as even KerryGold but also stupid
        | expensive, because they only compete with those imports.
 
      | boc wrote:
      | I mean, it's the same reason you can't find a great mission
      | burrito in Paris. Every city has its own food culture.
 
        | thfuran wrote:
        | So you're suggesting that a main feature of US food
        | culture is shit bread?
 
        | dragonwriter wrote:
        | > So you're suggesting that a main feature of US food
        | culture is shit bread?
        | 
        | I don't know if GP was suggesting it, but it absolutely
        | unironically is. At least from the perspective of anyone
        | who thinks of bread as a standalone element; bread as a
        | neutral canvas for other elements is fairly central to,
        | at least, many of the distinct American food cultures.
 
        | yamtaddle wrote:
        | I mean, I'm not complaining that our foie gras is
        | lacking, or our sushi's not very good. Bread's pretty
        | important across a lot of cuisines and my city's
        | bizarrely terrible at it, for some reason. Zero places
        | here make _really_ good bread, and the few that achieve
        | "OK" charge so much one hesitates to eat it, rather than
        | preserving it in a display case to impress guests.
 
        | buzzdenver wrote:
        | What do you expect from a country that came up with the
        | saying "best thing since sliced bread", when sliced bread
        | is the worst :)
 
      | houplaboom wrote:
      | It's been 35 years since the price of baguette is no more
      | regulated in France.
 
        | yamtaddle wrote:
        | Perhaps my French-born French professor had outdated
        | information :-) I did find the prices to be notably low
        | and identical everywhere when I visited, but maybe that's
        | more a kind of cultural habit or expectation, than law,
        | these days.
 
      | 0_____0 wrote:
      | I am a fellow USian, who is haunted by the first good
      | baguette they had. Paris, December 2012. Only half of the
      | loaf made it to the hostel. I still vividly remember how it
      | felt to tear that first piece off of it, the delicacy of
      | the crust, the crumb, the warmth and aroma. I remember it
      | better than the first time I had sex, not a joke.
 
        | [deleted]
 
| rexreed wrote:
| Meanwhile there's a cream shortage here on the east coast US! The
| price of cream has gone up substantially and was entirely
| unavailable during Thanksgiving weekend in my local area. No
| heavy or light cream whatsoever at any store. And now it's 2.5x
| the price it usually is.
 
  | bombcar wrote:
  | It's amazing how local diary still is for many things.
  | 
  | During covid my parents could barely get milk and meanwhile we
  | were drowning in it.
 
    | rexreed wrote:
    | Even worse - dairy farms here had to dump milk due to
    | overproduction because there wasn't enough capacity for milk
    | processing to turn into cream and other products. Something
    | is really broken in dairy supply chain and the production
    | lines here. Cream is still not available in our region and
    | hasn't been for months.
    | 
    | Some crazy stuff in this article by an Ag producer:
    | https://agmoos.com/2021/12/10/supply-and-demand-are-the-
    | real...
    | 
    | And competition between cheese, cream, ice cream makers for
    | tight milk availability: https://nypost.com/2022/10/03/heres-
    | why-the-us-is-facing-a-b...
 
      | bombcar wrote:
      | Yeah, and I'm not sure all of those things can be
      | effectively shipped very far (perhaps cheese and ice
      | cream).
      | 
      | Around here milk is a _bit_ higher than before, but there
      | 's no shortages of anything cow related.
 
| turtledragonfly wrote:
| "we do everything by hand"
| 
| ... proceeds to demonstrate large churning machine (:
| 
| No, I know they're doing a much more manual process than most
| such factories. I think even the Amish use automation for
| churning.
| 
| For reference though, 380 tons is actually a smallish number.
| Seems France produces about 1000x that much in total, per year,
| not to mention other countries.
 
  | megablast wrote:
  | > 380 tons is actually a smallish number
  | 
  | Um, did anyone think any different??
 
  | mrtksn wrote:
  | By hand usually means using machinery to do something the
  | traditional way. People can do very little without machines.
  | 
  | The difference is that it's not a mass production process that
  | usually requires special chemicals and treatments to keep the
  | ingredients in certain state to run high speed high yield
  | process.
  | 
  | It's like the hand made toys that are actually made using power
  | tools, knives, hammers etc.
  | 
  | as long as you don't alter the process but just get help from
  | machines to speed up things or increase yields, it's handmade.
 
  | dhosek wrote:
  | I was thinking the same thing. It's a bit over a ton a day,
  | which is 250 gallons of milk (well, probably a bit more
  | assuming that it takes more than a pound of milk to make a
  | pound of butter). Kind of like the scene in the first Austin
  | Powers movie where Doctor Evil demands ONE MILLION DOLLARS! and
  | the world leaders laugh.
 
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