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'No Sweets': For Syrian Refugees in Lebanon, a Tough Ramadan

Associated Press

   BHANNINE, LEBANON - It was messy and hectic in Aisha al-Abed's kitchen,
   as the first day of Ramadan often is. Food had to be on the table at
   precisely 7:07 p.m. when the sun sets and the daylong fast ends.

   What is traditionally a jovial celebration of the start of the Muslim
   holy month around a hearty meal was muted and dispirited for her small
   Syrian refugee family.

   As the 21-year-old mother of two worked, with her toddler daughter in
   tow, reminders of life's hardships were everywhere: In the makeshift
   kitchen, where she crouched on the ground to chop cucumbers next to a
   single-burner gas stove. In their home: a tent with a concrete floor
   and wooden walls covered in a tarp. And, definitely, in their iftar
   meal -- rice, lentil soup, french fries and a yogurt-cucumber dip; her
   sister sent over a little chicken and fish.

   "This is going to be a very difficult Ramadan," al-Abed said. "This
   should be a better meal ... After a day's fast, one needs more
   nutrition for the body. Of course, I feel defeated."

   Ramadan, which began Tuesday, comes as Syrian refugees' life of
   displacement has gotten even harder amid their host country Lebanon's
   economic woes. The struggle can be more pronounced during the holy
   month, when fasting is typically followed by festive feasting to fill
   empty stomachs.

   "High prices are killing people," said Raed Mattar, al-Abed's
   24-year-old husband. "We may fast all day and then break our fast on
   only an onion," he said, using an Arabic proverb usually meant to
   convey disappointment after long patience.

   Lebanon, home to more than 1 million Syrian refugees, is reeling from
   an economic crisis exacerbated by the pandemic and a massive explosion
   that destroyed parts of the capital last August.

   Citing the impact of the compounded crises, a U.N. study said the
   proportion of Syrian refugee families living under the extreme poverty
   line -- the equivalent of roughly $25 a month per person by current
   black market rates -- swelled to 89% in 2020, compared to 55% the
   previous year.

   More people resorted to reducing the size or number of meals, it said.
   Half the Syrian refugee families surveyed suffer from food insecurity,
   up from 28% at the same time in 2019, it said.

   Refugees are not alone in their pain. The economic turmoil, which is
   the culmination of years of corruption and mismanagement, has squeezed
   the Lebanese, plunging 55% of the country's 5 million people into
   poverty and shuttering businesses.

   As jobs became scarce, Mattar said more Lebanese competed for the
   low-paying construction and plumbing jobs previously left largely for
   foreign workers like himself. Wages lost their value as the local
   currency, fixed to the dollar for decades, collapsed. Mattar went from
   making the equivalent of more than $13 a day to less than $2, roughly
   the price of a kilo and a half of non-subsidized sugar.
   Muslim women break their fast during the Muslim holy fasting month of
   Ramadan along the seaside promenade in Beirut, Lebanon, April 15, 2021.

   "People are kind and are helping, but the situation has become
   disastrous," he said. "The Lebanese themselves can't live. Imagine how
   we are managing."

   Nerves are fraying. Mattar was among hundreds displaced from an
   informal camp last year after a group of Lebanese set it on fire
   following a fight between a Syrian and a Lebanese.

   It was the fifth displacement for al-Abed's young family, bouncing
   mainly between informal settlements in northern Lebanon. They had to
   move twice after that, once when a Lebanese landowner doubled the rent,
   telling Mattar he can afford it since he gets aid as a refugee. Their
   current tent is in Bhannine.

   This year, Syrians marked the 10th anniversary of the start of the
   uprising-turned-civil war in their country. Many refugees say they
   cannot return because their homes were destroyed or they fear
   retribution, either for being considered opposition or for evading
   military conscription, like Mattar. He and al-Abed each fled Syria in
   2011 and met in Lebanon.

   Even before Ramadan started, Rahaf al-Saghir, another Syrian in
   Lebanon, fretted over what her family's iftar would look like.

   "I don't know what to do," said the recently widowed mother of three
   daughters. "The girls keep saying they crave meat, they crave chicken,
   biscuits and fruit."

   As the family's options dwindled, her daughters' questions became more
   heart wrenching. Why can't we have chips like the neighbors' kids? Why
   don't we drink milk to grow up like they say on television? Al-Saghir
   recalled breaking into tears when her youngest asked her what the
   strawberry she was seeing on television tasted like. She later bought
   her some, using U.N. assistance money, she said.
   Syrian refugee Rayan, 18 months old, plays inside her parents' tent
   before they break their fast on the first day of Ramadan, at an
   informal refugee camp in the town of Bhannine, Lebanon, April 13, 2021.

   For Ramadan, al-Saghir was determined to stop her daughters from seeing
   photos of other people's iftar meals. "I don't want them to compare
   themselves to others," she said. "When you are fasting in Ramadan, you
   crave a lot of things."

   The start of Ramadan, the first since al-Saghir's husband died, brought
   tears. Her oldest daughters were used to their father waking them for
   suhoor, the pre-dawn meal before the day's fast, which he would
   prepare.

   A few months before he died -- of cardiac arrest -- the family moved
   into a one-bedroom apartment shared with a relative's family.

   This year, their first iftar was simple -- french fries, soup and
   fattoush salad. Al-Saghir wanted chicken but decided it was too
   expensive.

   Before violence uprooted them from Syria, Ramadan felt festive.
   Al-Saghir would cook and exchange visits with family and neighbors,
   gathering around scrumptious savory and sweet dishes.

   "Now, there's no family, no neighbors and no sweets," she said.
   "Ramadan feels like any other day. We may even feel more sorrow."

   Amid her struggles, she turns to her faith.

   "I keep praying to God," she said. "May our prayers in Ramadan be
   answered and may our situation change. ... May a new path open for us."