Daytona USA
Team Hornet Driver's Complete Manual for better driving
Compiled by Mark Kim (Vesther Faruansy)
Version 0.0.1c
Date of Completion: December 19, 1999 (No time given)
Date of Public Release: December 19, 1999 (No Time Given)
Copyright Information
---------------------
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This file is basically derived from my own Daytona USA Compendium
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If for any reason you do not agree and/or adhere to all of this legal
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Daytona USA is a registered trademark and a copyright of the Daytona
Speedway Association and is affiliated with the NASCAR Racing League.
The Daytona Speedway is the sole, intellectual property of the
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USA and Daytona USA 2 were licensed for recreational/amusement
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Reserved. This FAQ has been created by Mark Kim in respect to all
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I didn't create this file so that some hack-writer can just slack-off
and get paid for it!!!
========================================================================
HISTORY OF THIS FAQ
November 27, 1999
-----------------
Daytona USA has been out for 5 years now and it's still a classic. I'm
getting sick and tired of most people playing it improperly. I am aiming
this guide at most people at Dave and Buster's because I have to get rid
of the habitual tug-o-boat car-playing that I see every visit I make to
Dave and Buster's. Notice that both the Mini-Guides and the Full-Version
Guides have been released at the same date.
December 19, 1999
-----------------
ALL RIGHT, ALL RIGHT!!! So my tips were not as advanced to your thoughts.
Well, the Dinosaur Canyon strategies have been fixed in order to include
some advanced strategies. Keep in mind that these advanced strategies
require the use of the Manual Transmission, as it's the almighty tool
for burning the competition to dust!
========================================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ
* Newsflash
* Overview
* Basics
* Sega's Virtua Reality System
* Game Tips
* The Tracks
= Three-Seven Speedway (Beginner)
= Dinosaur Canyon (Advanced)
= Seaside Street Galaxy (Expert)
* Do's and Dont's
* Resources (if any)
* Acknowledgements
========================================================================
NEWSFLASH
As always, newer versions of this FAQ can be found at my primary web
site, http://www.verasnaship.net. If you have any suggestions, fixes,
or any other mumbo-jumbo that you have to share with me, then please
use this convenient mail form at the following address:
* http://www.verasnaship.net/text/emailme.html
The only rules I'd like to enforce is that you keep your messages clean
at all times.
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========================================================================
OVERVIEW OF DAYTONA USA
Daytona USA was created by Toshihiro Nagoshi in 1994 under cooperation
and close supervision of NASCAR, Martin Marinelli Contractors, and Daytona
International Speedway. This game boasted all the adrenaline Stock Car
excitement in three fantasy tracks with realistic controls, Sega's Virtua
Reality System, air bladdering, pedal feel control, and (the main reason
why this game is so popular) the 1994-formula of Stock Cars. The Polygons
moved smoother than those of Virtua Racing's, and the action's faster,
meaner, and more vicious. For the first time in a Sega game, powerslides
were allowed, though they are done in a more realistic degree as opposed
to Namco's Ridge Racer. Daytona's seating accomodations allowed you to
reduce the amount of leg/back pain caused during game play. This was also
the first game to feature the Four-Speed Stick Clutchless Manual
Transmission which is quite possibly a simulated version of the Manual
Gearbox found in real-life Stock Cars. Though Super GT/Scud Race has
surpassed Daytona as far as graphics are concerned, Daytona will always
be noticed as the highest-grossing Deluxe Arcade Game of all time.
Toshihiro Nagoshi then took two more years after the release of Scud Race
to see what he can do to attract the American Audience once again (Keep
in mind that Super GT/Scud Race didn't appeal to as many Americans as
with other players around the world).
========================================================================
THE BASICS
Braking: I strongly recommend that you rest your left feet on the Brakes,
and the right feet on the Gas Pedal. There are two types of braking.
Gas-Feed Braking occurs when you brake when you have the gas running.
No-Gas Braking occurs when you release the gas and brake almost
immediately. You need to know when to use whatever type of braking when
taking on a certain turn in the race. There are times when you need to
use some throttle when taking on a hairpin and there are also times when
you have to release the gas for handling purposes. Some instances when
you have to choose between gas-feed braking and no-gas braking is at
Seaside Street Galaxy, where handling plays an important role. I'll let
you know what braking you should use as this guide goes on.
Powersliding: Powersliding is done when you tap the brake (almost
immediately after you release the gas) in a straight line, and you
fully bank your car to the direction you want to slide. While sliding,
it's important that you have a good feel of the steering wheel in order
to counterbank the fishtail.
There are many ways to powerslide which follows:
* Tap the brake while feeding in gas. While braking, turn the wheel
hard and steer up. The chances of sliding depends on how loose the
car's yaw tolerance is.
* Release the gas pedal and wait for AT LEAST 1 second before
powersliding. Now hit the gas while turning the steering wheel hard
at the same time. The Hornet can only powerslide if you have the foot
off the gas while turning and if you hit the gas while turning so this
is not the ideal way of sliding.
* Shift down to either 2nd or 1st gear to alter the Car's Yaw Tolerance.
While the car's redlined, softly steer so that the car's able to slide
without spinning out. Braking cutting too little gas has a tendency to
throw you closer to the wall and grass. Please do all of your braking
at a straight line and before a turn (Jarno Kokko standed true on this
one on a document produced in cooperation with Eugene Moon). Here is
the reason why Manual is more rewarding: If you place the gearbox at
Third Gear, then the chances of kissing the outside destructive elements
will decrease. You may want to use short taps of the gas pedal to
reduce such chances anyway. You can do a quick 2-3 while on turns if
you fee that you are still going too fast.
However, there are bound to be corners when you can cut your speed and
maintain your flame with the competition without having to overslide. In
the Grand Prix and Endurance Settings, Oversliding or any means of
Powersliding can wear out your tires and can make your car's handling
even lousier the next time you face a tight corner, so try to keep
oversliding to an absolute minimum on these two settings. As the turn
ends, counterbank the car. To learn how to powerslide, use any car with
the Manual Transmission (it's ludicrous) at 3-7 Speedway. The final turn
should allow you to get used to the real-life powersliding mechanics in
the game. You may wind up losing speed while sliding, so be prepared to
take advantage of the gas pedal's potentiometers when doing this.
Manual Transmission: Manual is a lot harder to drive than Automatic
because you need to use the Gear Shift at the right side of the Steering
Wheel. However, Manual provides even more confident handling on the
technical tracks than the Automatic. If you shift to a higher gear too
soon, then you will bog yourself down. If you shift too late, then you
will lose some top speed. Be valiant on this. 0-70 mph (0-112 kmh)
is the range for First Gear. 71-110 mph (113-177 km/h) is the range for
Second Gear. 111-160 mph (174-257 km/h) is the range for Third Gear.
Anything above 160/257 is fourth gear property. If you are using Manual,
then don't bother using the brakes unless necessary as the gearbox should
do it all for you.
Tailgating/Slingshots: Tailgating occurs when you are trying to drift
your car into the slipstream of your drones. To tailgate, line up your
car so that you can touch the air of the drone for some speed increase.
Be sure that you get out of the line as you pass the car or when you rear
the car, the drone will gain speed and you will lose speed. This is an
important skill to master if you want to get the fastest lap times in any
track, and this is important to learn (in addition to Powersliding) at
the Three-Seven Speedway. The best time to tailgate is at a Straightaway,
where you can pick up the pace. You can tailgate at a corner, although
it's rather dangerous to do.
Grass and Walls: The Walls, if you happen to get in contact with, will
violently cut your speed down, wear out your tires, and damage your car's
body facing the direction you hit the wall. The Grass is even more terrible
to deal with than the Wall because you will lose speed rapidly and
progressively (resulting in a loss of time), and in addition to the loss
of speed and some valuable ticks you will also risk burning or melting up
the tires in a flash. It's important to avoid these two hazards at all
costs if you want to bet for the fastest lap times. Try to finish each
lap without any contact with the Grass or the barriers. A completed race
without contact with the grass or the barriers means that you're finally
learning something in the blue. BTW it's more likely that you will lose
stability if you touch the grass for any reason. Also, neither of these
are not your worst enemies (unless you want to go for a record time) since
these two can be avoided with finesse.
Drones: Your worst enemy in this game is not the Grass or the Walls
(you can avoid them with skill and technique), and it's not the clock
(although beginners will consider this one their worst enemy). It's
the drones. Any contact with the drones will cause damage to your car.
Although you try to strive for perfection for every lap (apart from the
fact that you want a fast lap), overtime computer cars tend to pose the
greatest threat in the race. Computer Cars tend to show intelligence in
any track and the lower the time limit, the more intelligence the
Computer Cars will show. In any corner, they can really be a big pain
in the ass. Any rearending with the computer car will violently cut your
speed down and do damage with your front. Any side-impacting with the
drones will hinder your accleration and damage your sides. You can try
to cut the car off by having the drones hit you from behind (but you
risk damaging the back of the car too), but the worst you can do is to
rear the drone going no faster than 20 mph at 200+mph WHICH CAN REALLY
MAKE YOUR LIFE MISERABLE.
Variating your experience: When you play your first game of Daytona USA,
it's important that you don't play either the Advanced or Expert track
since they contain a lot of blind turns. Also, I highly recommend that
you start using Manual Transmission the first time you play it (even
though it takes months of practice). Also, controlled powersliding
(although you tend to lose speed and wear out tires by oversliding) is
important to learn, so you better refrain from using Automatic.
Manual Transmission allows you to control the car's yaw tolerance in
almost any turn and there are times when you cannot slide due to narrow
track, or so-so.
Real Players Only: To play Real Players Only, insert your Tokens, select
a track, and your car. Hold the Start Button while selecting your
drivetrain and you'll be able to challenge your best lap time without
those damn drones. In order to do this on the MultiPlayer Mode, all
players must hold the start button while selecting their drivetrain.
This is better to do if you want to practice. Otherwise, you minus well
just try to play a game with your worst enemy, drones.
Getting a good start: In the Beginner Track, you start with a rolling
start. In the other tracks, you start from a Standing Start. In Daytona
1, hold the brake all the way down while you are revving the engine to
about 7000 RPMs. As the announcer says GO, controllably hesitate and
release the brake and as soon as you hit about 45 mph (72 km/h), floor
it. Timing is critical when doing a jump start on Daytona 1 and this
may take some practice to master. This is something important to know
so practice with this one when you play the Advanced and Expert Tracks
for the first time.
Note: The reason why I said hold the tach at 7 is to make sure that
you are getting a good start. However, you can hold the tach at any
area of the Yellow Region of the Tach, provided that the timing of
the Rocket Start is right. You can hold the tach at 5100 RPMs and still
get the timing right provided that you know how to do it correctly.
You might be able to get a more confident Rocket Start if you hold the
tach at 7 or maybe just a bit under, then at the start, release the brake
and don't move your foot until your tires stop sliding, which when done
correctly should be just 1/4 a second. then floor it.
========================================================================
VIRTUA REALITY VIEWPOINTS
AM2's tradition of providing you flexible views. You can use the four
VR buttons to change your views during gameplay. You can either view
the action inside the car, inside the car with the hood, above the car,
or above the car wide. To be more self-explanatory, here are the VR
Facts:
VR1: This viewpoint button allows you to see the screen like you would
turn on your headlights. This is good if you want to have a good
feel of the car, but I don't recommend this view because you are
not able to see what direction you are going when you are sliding
through a terrible hairpin.
VR2: This is pretty much like you would see in real life racing.
Not only you are able to see the hood (to assess damage at the
front), but you are able to see what direction you are sliding.
Going inside the car is rather tedious because you can't see
who's sneaking up on you at your left or right.
VR3: You'll get a good portion of view (at least a little) from the
left and right. Unfortunately, the car is too close to see who
is close in front of you, and it makes it hard to tailgate when
you need to make the most out of it.
VR4: This is the preferred view of playing (although reality is
greatly hurt from this view). Not only you get to see who's
sneaking within your sides, but you can also see who's coming
in front of you, and you can time your cornering attempts more
efficiently.
I'm not sure if Daytona USA has hidden views as with Super GT/Scud Race
and Daytona 2, though.
========================================================================
GAME TIPS
* A good rule of thumb is not to play the Technical Tracks your first
couple times through since they are the most frustrating tracks in the
game. Even though Automatic is easier, I recommend that you always
play this game using Manual Transmission at the Beginner Track. This
way you can get accustomed to the game's basics. Later on, when your
skill rises, then you can try the harder tracks.
* Try to tailgate (lining up the car at the same line your drone is at
to milk up speed and getting out of the way as you pass the drone).
It's impossible to keep up with the competition (as well as with the
lead car) without using this technique at its fullest. In order to
tailgate without error, master this technique at the Beginner Track.
* It's almost impossible to keep up with the competition at harsh corners
without having to slide at ludicrously high speeds. At first, take on
the corner at low speed with some sliding. As your skills increase, you
can slide ludicrously at higher speeds. Just make sure that you are
not going too fast and forcing yourself into near-spinout experience.
* If you need to recover from sliding from terrible turns (like the turns
in the Expert Track), then it's the utmost importance that you don't
hold the gas all the way down while sliding. The way I take most of the
turns in the Expert Track is to release the gas, slow down, start sliding,
straighten out the car, and floor it as soon as the car's nice and straight
once again. In Daytona 2, a good feel of the gas is required to keep
the car inside the track during bad turns. I found the cars in this game
harder than in Daytona 2, though.
* Just like Jarno Kokko and Eugene Moon said in their FAQ, learn how to
use the Manual (In Indy 500, you can only get first place if you drive
Semi-Perfectly and if you used the Manual Transmission, which pisses
me off!). All it takes is a little more effort on how to shift up and
down. Acceleration is slightly crispier with the Manual and curb weight
is marginally lighter than the Automatic, resulting in a sheer increase
of speed. 4-1-4 Shifting is acceptable, as long as your timing is right
and as long as you are in complete control of the car at all times.
Manual makes it easier for any Stock Car to slide through horrible turns
through use of the gearbox and at times, when used properly, can smoothen
up the yaw faster than the Automatic Transmission. ENCOURAGE ANY OF
THE LADIES TO USE THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION.
* Staying as low as you can with the turn is the best way to take on the
corner, but there will be times when Drones will be staying low too.
In some cases, drones will be reluctant to let you pass. Try to stay
low without any contact with the drones.
* If for any reason any computer drone tries to block you while you're
trying to stay low on the turn, try to move from the outside of the
track *just right* so that the drone will be able to block you at the
outside of the turn. Quickly return to the Inside of the track. Be
careful as some cars won't fall for the sneak-in technique.
* Never, ever, ever touch the barriers, grass, or enemy cars whatsoever,
no matter what you think your move may be!
* Since you start in last place, the problem is overtaking Computer Cars.
Although Starters will consider the Time their worst enemy, and although
Tips and Tricks consider the Grass as their worst enemy, in Daytona USA,
the Computer Cars are your worst enemy overtime. You not only lose speed
if you rear them or hit them in any fashion, but you also risk damaging
your car's body and you risk doing damage to your engine, suspension, and
transmission as well. A healthy race can be ruined by a few hits on any
car and a rearing at a 20 mph/32 kmh moving car at speeds of 200 mph/322
kmh or better IS THE WORST THING YOU CAN EVER DO.
* As Jarno Kokko declared, do all of your slowing down before the turn,
as braking during a turn may throw you off the track. If you need to
make some last-minute slowing down in Daytona, then it's better for you
to use rapid-taps to the gas. However, my way of negating chances of
kissing "off the track" is to a quick 2-3 with the Manual of course.
========================================================================
EASTER EGGS
Easter Eggs can be found at Secrets of the GameSages at the following
address:
* http://www.gamesages.com
========================================================================
BEGINNER TRACK
Track's Name: Three-Seven Speedway
Number of Laps formost machines: 8 Laps
Entries: 40 Cars
Difficulty Level: Beginner
Course Length: 1 Mile
Number of Turns: 3
Ideal Lap Time: Under 18"000
Ideal overall: Under 2'20"000 (It's tough!!!)
Type of Start: Rolling Start.
Note about Rolling Start: Always keep the Gearbox at 4th Gear
and make sure you're giving out full
gas.
Author's Best Lap: No Data
Author's Best Overall: 2'19"xxx with Manual Transmission
========================================================================
INDEX OF TURNS
1. Base Bank
2. Roulette Wheel Curve
3. Sonic Mountain Hairpin
Loosely based on the infamous Daytona Motor Speedway at Daytona, Florida
with some cute scenery placed in by AM2. Three-Seven Speedway is a
high-speed fight against 40 cars through a 1-mile oval track complimented
with three high-speed banks. Beginners will have a problem with the 40
car count and the Mount Sonic Hairpin near the final stretch of the track.
It's nearly impossible to finish the track with a time limit setting of
"Expert" unless you learn how to use the Manual Transmission. Much of
the basics can be learned in this track, from tailgating cars (The Lucky
Seven Straight) to sliding at "Turn 3" (Mount Sonic). I'm aiming this
FAQ mainly at scrubs who are into much of the lame "crash-to-win" games
because this game lives primarily for one reason: hardcore gameplay!!!!
Unless you learn how to take the Mount Sonic Hairpin with style, you
will find yourself having a hard time to complete this track because
most machines may have a time limit setting of "Expert", which means
that you only have 151 ticks on the clock to finish this track.
Regardless of gender, age, or whatever the bushururu would be, it's
Manual all the way, and you need to be easy on the steering wheel.
Daytona USA stands tall (even at 5 years of age) for its stock car-like
feel of the steering wheel.
My Note: In the 1993 release of the game, the computer cars in this
track all fought you cheaply, which is no mistake why another release
of this game was necessary to revise the program so that the computer
cars wouldn't fight you cheaply on the beginner track. The Number 20
"MISS Insurance" Car was an overly cheap opponent on this track that
soon he was toned down that even those who are adjusting from Automatic
to Manual would be given a chance to get to First Place even with a
modest achievement of 2'24"xxx.
I will only go Manual on this track since much of the track's focus is
on speed. Note that you can only go 197 mph on Automatic as opposed to
the robust 203 mph on Manual (That's 313 kmh with Automatic and 327 kmh
on Manual).
Start of the Race
-----------------
With the rolling start, you should keep the stick at Fourth Gear and your
feet on the gas pedal at all times. If you are using Automatic, then
you should keep both hands on the wheel and fully floored. Even with
the Manual Transmission, the only time you will ever need to use the
Gearbox is at Mount Sonic. You will be going about 201 mph as you start
the race. Carefully milk up the cars and prepare for the first turn.
Base Bank
---------
You should have no problem with this turn. Stay low in this turn for
as much as you can and as the turn terminates, move to the outside of
the track so that you can allow some room for apex-clipping on the next
turn.
Roulette Wheel Curve
--------------------
Start from the Outside and move into the Inside of the turn. You
should barely miss the wall if done correctly. Never, ever, ever try to
jerk the wheel too hard or you may hit the wall. If you are at the
outside of the turn, then carefully clip the apex and fast-out of the
turn. The ideal speed for this one would be 206 mph/332 kmh with some
apex cutting. However, if you are going inside, then you may have to
go a bit slower since Turn 2 is a lot more dangerous than Turn 1, though
this turn isn't as dangerous as Turn 3.
Mount Sonic Hairpin
-------------------
Listen, I'm getting sick and tired of people at Dave and Buster's playing
Turn Hard Left, Full Speed Ahead games. Pay attention right now as I'm
going to help you take this turn without any barrier masturbation (tm).
Notice that "there's a crevice at Turn 3" meaning that you will encounter
a tight turn with concrete on the right and massive grass at the left.
Don't be at the extreme right of the track because from a test game of
Daytona USA 2 with the Scorpio Car, drones love to stay as low as they
can so stay right *just right* so that you can clip the apex.
From the coach's speech, "Tap the Brake", right after you hear the word
"Brake", downshift to First Gear. Start sliding and at the same time
shift back to Second Gear. When your speed is in between 180-185 mph
(290-300 km/h), shift to Third Gear. Shifting to Fourth Gear while
taking on the Hairpin has a tendency to overincrease your speed so don't
go to fourth just yet. Smoothen up the car after exiting out of the turn
and once the car is back nice and smooth, shift back to fourth.
A rant: There doesn't seem to be a great spot where you can do your
controlled slowing down before Turn 3 in this game but if you can manage
to shift to First Gear when your coach says "Crevice", then shift to
Second when your speed drops to 190/306 (A/B figure, where A is MPH
and B is KMH) and back to Third when your speed drops to 185/300.
The timing is hard so it's best to start slowing down in between the
words "Brake" and "There's". Try not to shift back to Fourth until
you are finished with the turn.
If you kiss the wall, then your speed will violently cut down. You will
continue to lose lots of speed every time you kiss the wall and if you
have kiseed the wall the sixth or seventh time, then your speed will be
lousy, with abmyssal acceleration. Time the turn too early, and you will
eat the grass, causing a major spin-out. Failure to adhere to this section
of this file will result in harsh embrace of the concrete, thus damaging
your car and ruining up your tires.
No wonder Daytona USA was the first game to ever simulate tire damage.
Every time you slide on a same turn, traction begins to get worse, thus
it feels slippery like ice the next time you get there.
If you have taken the Mount Sonic Turn correctly, your speed should
hit about 190 mph (306 km/h) by the time you hit the Next Lap Line.
Eight Laps on most machines to finish the race. Without any flaws on this
track, your time should be under 18 seconds for each lap with the Manual
Transmission. Hopefully, you should be under 2'20"00 by the time you
finish the race. It's possible to reach a time of under 2'17"00, though
the cars are pretty nasty in this game.
========================================================================
ADVANCED TRACK
Track's Name: Dinosaur Canyon
Number of Laps formost machines: 4 Laps
Entries: 20 Cars
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Course Length: 2.25 Miles
Number of Turns: 10
Ideal First Lap: Under 52"000
Ideal Subsequent Laps: Under 45"000
Ideal overall: Under 3'05"000
Type of Start: Standing Start
Author's Best Lap: No Data
Author's Best Overall: 3'01"xxx with Manual Transmission
========================================================================
Index of Turns
--------------
1-2: Spectator's Area
3. Uphill Grade
4. Tunnel Prelude
5-6: Tunnel Aftermath
7. Intersection Curve
8. Windmill Hairpin
9. AM2 Memorial Curve
10. Fossil Tear Curve
Overview
--------
A hilly canyon that starts out to be easy, but tends to get tough on the
second half of the track. You do your High-Speed Racing on the first half
of the track and do your Technical Racing close to the Second Time Extension.
There are four evil turns that will fool you if you are not capable of
drifting and apex-cutting, so be on guard at all times. There's one turn
that you have to worry about, which is the Fossil Tear Curve at the final
stretch of the track. This turn is hard to maintain your speed well because
there's no banking during the curve, which really boosts up the challenge.
You should be able to learn how to skid at the Mount Sonic Hairpin at the
Three Seven Speedway. If you are planning to use the Automatic Transmission
for this track, then keep in mind that you only need to keep the foot off
the gas at the Fossil Tear Curve. If you are a klutz at the AM2 Hairpin,
then you may need to keep the foot off the gas right there as well.
Automatic Transmission: Here I will try to strike a good balance between
Speed and Handling. This may not be the best way to intake a nasty turn
but I will try to take things easy as much as possible. Scrubs defintely
need heavy assistance in this track and in the expert track as well.
Manual Transmission: I will give you my kick-ass techniques right in this
track as you fight your way through Daytona's murderous track in the game.
You really don't need the brakes for this track, with the exception of the
jump start. Just shift from high to low to maintain better control through
harsh turns and watch the gas feed at certain points of the turns.
Note: In the 1993 release of the game, the cars are all overly cheap and
will eventually try to ruin your lap times. However, the computer cars
have been toned down in 1994 machines so that you can complete this track
with higher confidence. Some of the overly cheap cars included the Number
16 Tune Insurance Car (Number 16 Petreloil Motor Oil in Daytona 2), both
Starline Performance Cars (Number 12 and 13), and the Number 20 MISS
Insurance Car (Number 69 Car Ex Performance in 1993 Release, Number 20
MISS Insurance in 1994 Release, and known as the Number 20 Morrison's
Inn Car in Daytona 2). Be careful not to get involved in a major
20-car pileup in any part of this track.
Start of the Race
-----------------
It's time to play around with the big boys as you will no longer have any
rolling starts. The best way to deal with this type of race start is to
hold the tach in between 7-8 revs and hold the brake down as you keep the
tach at 7 and 8. When the lights turn green and as the spectator says "GO!,"
hesitate for a split second then release the brake while keeping the gas
floored at the same state you revved your engine at during the countdown.
After a second or two of acceleration, floor it. Critical timing is required
with this one but once you master this important art, pass a few cars and
laugh out loud.
WARNING: A JUMP START WILL ALSO ANGER SOME OF THE DRONES SO BE PREPARED FOR
SOME OF THE WORST JUST BEFORE TAKING ON THE UPHILL RIGHT BANK.
Regardless of the transmission, you should always strive for a Jump Start.
ATers may need to use the brake in four instances overall but MTers shouldn't
be able to use the brake other than the Rocket Start.
Spectator's Area
----------------
This is a Simple Ess Curve which can be taken at full speed. Provided that
you are not doing any harsh yanking of the wheel, you shouldn't be losing
any speed at all.
Uphill Grade
------------
Stay low with this long banked easy right at all times. I personally would
align the white shoulder chalk in between the Hornet's headlights, though
it's kind of a risk. If you can keep yourself low just about the way I
personally (and Eugene Moon and other Daytona players) did, then you
shouldn't be going any slower than 199 mph (320 km/h). Be warned that
ATers will be going pretty slow on this turn so be prepared to face some
resistance right here.
Tunnel Prelude
--------------
Stay low on this turn but don't turn the steering wheel too harsh or you
might go off the track and get into a spectacular crash. Just stay easy
on the wheel and clip the apex of the S-Curve. Be careful not to hit
any vehicles on this part of the section as passing seems to be really
difficult before the Tunnel.
Now you should do some tailgaiting at the tunnel to pass a few cars.
Don't let the Tunnel straight fool you as there will be some curves near
the end of the tunnel and the Technical Section is about to start right
after you exit the tunnel, so stay calm on the steering wheel.
Starting your Technical Racing
------------------------------
This section consists of 4 parts:
1. The S-Curve after the Tunnel
2. The Intersection
3. The Windmill Hairpin
4. The AM2 Memorial Curve
Avoid yanking the steering too hard on the Easy S-Curve before the
Intersection as you might lose control as you enter the Intersection.
Every ounce of car control counts from this point on. Gently cut the
apex of the easy s-curve and make sure that you are lined up at the
left side of the track before the Intersection. As you are about to
enter the Intersection, do the following:
Automatic Transmission: Lightly tap the brake and slide rightwards.
By the time you cross the First Time Extension, you should be finished
sliding by smoothening up the car. You might be dropping way below 195
mph (314 km/h) but you should be running in at least 190 mph (306 km/h).
Manual Transmission: When you are about to enter the Intersection, shift
down to Second Gear and almost immediately start sliding. Shift back to
Fourth Gear when your speed drops down to 200 mph (322 km/h). You should
be able to have the car back nice and smooth by the time you reach the
Second Time Extension. Too early of an intake may lead to grass contact
at the right side of the track whereas too late of an intake may lead to
harsh fence contact at the left side of the track. Timing must be right
to maintain ludicrous speeds for this one. You should be able to run at
a straight line at 200 mph (322 kmh) crossing Check Point 2 if your timing
was right.
Note: Keep the foot on the gas for the Intersection.
Now you are going to confront the Windmill Hairpin, which is IMO the worst
turn in this track. You should be at the left side of the track when you
cross Time Extension 2. Always start sliding from the first warning sign
or you might eat the grass and the fence at the left side of the track.
Do the following to avoid such commotion of the car:
Automatic Transmission: When you are about to "touch" the first warning
sign, brake and then start sliding rightwards. If your timing is right
then you should be able to barely miss the grass and the rock at the right
side of the track. Be sure that you counterslide as you exit through the
turn to avoid losing control. Keep the foot on the gas for the Windmill
Hairpin, even though it's pretty much a crappy turn. At the straight
before the AM2 Hairpin, you should have the car nice and smooth. About
175 mph (282 km/h) while sliding would be reasonable right here.
Manual Transmission: From the first warning sign and from the extreme
left, downshift to First Gear and start sliding. When your speed drops
to 185 mph (300 km/h), shift back to Fourth Gear. Exit the turn by
countersteering and keeping it floored at fourth. If you feel that your
car is going to kiss the left side of the track and is going to eat the
fence, then don't brake or use taps of the gas. Just keep the foot on
the gas at all times. Do a 2-3-4 to lock the wheels and to prevent your
car from going out of the track. You can take this turn at higher speeds
by shifting to First Gear and begin sliding at the first warning sign
and immediately shifting back to Fourth once the slide's reasonable
enough, but you need to shift down to Second Gear and shift to Third Gear
at the Middle of the Turn and refrain from going to Fourth Gear until
the turn terminates. I've heard that S'Pore does 4-1-4-2-3-4 on this
turn but it's kind of hard because of the strict timing of this turn.
If you MUST do 4-1-4-2-3-4, then from the first warning sign, downshift
to First Gear and start sliding. When your speed drops to 192 mph (309
km/h), shift back to Fourth Gear and almost immediately shift to Second
Gear. When your speed drops to 180-185 mph (290-300 km/h), shift to
Third Gear. Smoothen up the car as you exit through the turn and shift
back to Fourth Gear after smoothening up the car. This is really difficult
to do because of the harsh timing of this.
Note: Anybody at S'Pore, please correct me on this 4-1-4-2-3-4 phenomenon
if I'm wrong with the timing.
Make sure that the foot is on the gas all the way even on the Windmill
Hairpin.
Experts Only: At the first warning sign, downshift to 2nd, and make
sure that you drop your speed to 185/298 before shifting back to Fourth.
Make sure to keep your foot on the gas at all times. This is a tough
technique to learn but the rewards are pretty significant. IMO 4-1-4
at 185/298 or below (but now lower than 180/290) is the safest bet.
Next we have the AM2 Hairpin, which is actually a banked hairpin with
Tire Marks. You want to start this turn from the right side of the track
and use the Tire Marks on the bank of the turn as guides to help you slide
this turn apex-clipping style.
Automatic Transmission: Brake at about 155 mph (250 km/h) and keep the foot
off the gas since you might go off the track if you bother to keep your
foot on the gas. Slide within the Tire Marks and countersteer ONLY after
the exit of the turn. Smoothen up the car and start flooring it to the
max. Don't brake while during the turn or you might go off the track.
Manual Transmission: Shift down to First at a straight line and slide and
make sure to slide while the tires are hugging the tire marks. When your
speed drops below 165 mph (265 km/h), shift to 3rd. Make sure that the yaw
angle is tolerant enough to prevent you from hugging the grass. You may need
to keep the foot off the gas to make things less hairy in this turn. After
the turn, floor the gas and straighten up the car (but make sure that the
wheels aren't squealing). At a straight line, immediately shift back to 4th
to get some speed going. It's possible to keep the foot on the gas with
the Manual Transmission during this turn, but the timing of having to exit
the turn without kissing the grass is a lot harder.
Experts Only: You definitely need to use the Tire Tracks tightly for this
one. Find a good spot to downshift to First Gear and when your speed drops
to 170 mph (273 km/h), shift back to Fourth. Make sure that your foot is
on the gas at all times for this one. Be sure to smoothen up the car at the
middle of the turn or you'll either kiss the grass or overspin the tires,
causing major tire burn. Strong countersteering is required with this one
as this turn is really tight.
Fossil Tear Curve
-----------------
You're near the end of a lap at the grueling Dinosaur Canyon, but you have
yet to undertake the dreaded Fossil Tear Curve. This turn must be slippen
and slidden at high speeds to retain your position. No ifs, ands, or buts.
Immediately dart into the left side of the track right after you finish up
with the hairpin. You can milk up some cars for some much-needed higher
positions, but don't let this straight fool you as the Fossil Tear Curve
isn't forgiving at all. As the slope terminates, your speed should be at
least 200 mph (322 km/h). The Slope's Termination also signals your cue
to start responding to this turn.
Automatic Transmission: You should be at the left side of the track during
the termination of the slope. Exactly at the termination of the slope,
brake and start sliding. Don't exceed 180 mph (290 km/h) or you might
kiss the grass at the left side and DEFINITELY KEEP THE FOOT OFF THE PEDAL
because this is definitely the best time to release the gas pedal since
the turn's not banked at all. Smoothen up the car once you can exit the
turn without drama and floor the car at a straight line. If you were
lousy on this turn, then you might have to pay the Pit Crew an accidential
visit.
Manual Transmission: There are two ways to take this turn as described
below:
* As the slope ends, shift down to 1st and almost immediately start sliding.
The yaw's angle should be tolerant enough to prevent you from touching the
grass and allows you to stay as low as you can in this turn. When your
speed drops below 180 mph, shift back to 3rd (or if you want to mesh up
the yaw a little bit more, 4th) and I strongly recommend that you keep the
foot off the gas until the turn ends. As the turn ends, smoothen the car
up and almost immediately floor the gas. When the car's travelling at a
straight line again, shift back to 4th. Part of the reason why I mention
shifting to 3rd after the yaw is tolerant enough to cut the apex is because
I want to keep the car as stable as I can.
* As the slope ends, shift down to 2nd and almost immediately start sliding.
As soon as the yaw's angle tolerance is at about 70 degrees, shift to 3rd.
Definitely release the gas pedal once you shift down to Second Gear as the
car becomes unstable once you start sliding. If you want to shift back
to 4th, keep the foot off the gas at all times. Either way, I recommend
keeping the foot off the gas right after you start sliding to ensure
maintenance of the car's stability. As the turn ends, you should have the
car smoothened up. When you are back inside a straight line, floor the gas
and almost immediately shift back to 4th. This one is a little bit riskier
than the 4-1-3-4 method because you're throwing yourself at the leftmost
grass area and possibly into your way on an unwanted pit stop. Never go
above 185 mph (300 km/h) with the Manual Car either way as this is grounds
for grass and concrete intercourse before the turn ends.
* Just before you hit the flat surface, get the foot off the gas, shift
down to First Gear until your speed reaches approximately 182 mph (293 to
295 km/h), then shift back to Fourth Gear and _slowly_ feed in the gas.
THIS TECHNIQUE REQUIRES THE TIGHTEST FEEL OF THE GAS PEDAL so don't get
mad if you can't get it right the first time. When mastered, you *should*
be able to exit this crap turn at least 185 mph (300 km/h if you are using
the Metric Speed Measurement).
Four laps on most machines to finish this race. Hopefully, your first lap
will be under 52"000 and every subsequent laps will be under 45"000. Remember
higher speeds through the turns are possible, though my experimentation
is rather limited here. If your time is under 3'00"000, then that's great.
========================================================================
EXPERT TRACK
Track's Name: Seaside Street Galaxy
Number of Laps formost machines: 2 Laps
Entries: 30 Cars
Difficulty Level: EXPERT!!!
Course Length: 5.75 Miles
Number of Turns: 27
Ideal First Lap: Under 1'46"000
Ideal Second Lap: Under 1'41"000
Ideal overall: Under 3'25"000 (IT'S TOUGH!!!)
Type of Start: Standing Start
Author's Best Lap: No Data
Author's Best Overall: 3'22"14 with Manual Transmission
========================================================================
Index of Turns
--------------
1-2: Median Heaven Prelude
3-4: Start of Television Corridors
5. Television Entrance
6-7: Television Chicane
8. Television Corridor Aftermath
9. Jeffry McWild Tear Curve
10. Virtua Seaside Intersection
11. Beach Sharp
12. Uphill Hairpin
13-14: Heartland Grass Area
15-17: Mountainside Turns
18. Back to the Drawbridge
19. Exit to the Space and Pirate Area
20-21: Space Shuttle Curves
22-23: Space Shuttle Ess
24-25: Space to Pirate Ess
26. Pirate Ship Hairpin
27. Back to the Drawbridge
Comments
--------
This is hard. I don't want to explain it any longer. Don't expect
to master this track your first couple of times as this track tests
your ability to be a competent driver rather than on speed. Your main
concerns will be negotiating the Television Area, from the Heartland
back into the Drawbridge Highway, and the Space Shuttle and Pirate Ship
Areas where you face two of the trickiest turns in the game.
Awkward Corridors, booby traps, and even amalgamations of some of the
crappiest turns you've encountered at Dinosaur Canyon are waiting for
you as you try to win the Seaside Street Galaxy Cup from the Number
55 Evangeline Motor Oil Car, who's a serious problem in this track.
Automatic Transmission: Well, I guess that most of the time you will
need to keep the foot off the gas because virtually every turn in this
track HAS NO BANKING AT ALL. This is important to know because if you
want to beat the track even with the modest AT, then you will need to
pay good attention to it. I'll try to play safe, but I'll also try to
be as fast as I can with this, despite its lack of speed.
Manual Transmission: I have to agree with both Jarno Kokko and Eugene
Moon. It is highly recommended that you learn how to use Manual
Transmission, regardless on how hard the turns will be, and NONETHELESS,
HOW NASTY THE CARS CAN GET!!! You can only perform kick-ass techniques
with the Manual Transmission, so keep that in mind as well. With
Manual's better handling and grip in tight situations, it looks like
that this drivetrain could be the choice in this track. The same thing
goes with Daytona 2. Regardless of the car, you have to use Manual if
you want to finish the track fast and clean.
Start of the Race
-----------------
Begin the race with the rocket start trick you've learned at the
Dinosaur Canyon Track. Getting a good start is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT
for this track since you don't have enough time to spare in this one.
Every second counts and every correct turn intaking counts as well.
Milk the cars for a couple of higher positions but don't let the
straight fool you because we have a "hard-on-the-steering-wheel"
negating S-Curve coming up.
The S-Curve
-----------
You should try to ease up on the steering wheel as being hard on the
steering wheel would produce some serious problems. Try to stay low
with these turns but don't yank the steering wheel too hard. It may
be relatively nasty but if you took the time to master knowing how to
"NOT turn too hard on the steering wheel", you should be OK. See, the
steering wheel is super-sensitive!
The Television Tunnel Entrance
------------------------------
This is your first main concern in this track as it's really hard for
me to explain in just words alone. To reduce the severity of your
entrance into the Television Tunnel, try to cross the median at Turn 3
and return back to the main track when you are about to enter inside
the Television Tunnel. It takes time to avoid the pillars while
trying to "smooth out" your entrance to the TV Corridor, so don't get
mad if you hit something.
To be more specific, here are the strategies...
Automatic Transmission: Don't get mad if you can't master this track
your first couple of times since this is the most awkward situation in
any racing game. All you need to do here is to just cross the Median
and make sure that you are aiming towards the Television Tunnel and
not hitting any pillars and/or concrete walls while you're at it.
When you touch the median for the first time, release the gas and
brake to about 155 mph (250 kmh). Do your braking at a straight line
because if you EVEN try to slide, then you may get into a spectacular
crash. Keep your foot off the gas at all times while taking on this
awkward corridor. When you are about to enter inside the Television
Corridor, smoothly enter inside the corridor and avoid any sliding.
Close to the Second Time Extension, your car should be back to Smooth
Condition and at a straight line, slam on the gas. Again, this awkward
corridor takes patience so don't get mad if you can't master it for
the first time.
Manual Transmission: Make sure that you are aiming right at the
Television Tunnel when doing this. When you cross the Median for
the first time, release the gas and downshift to First Gear. You
might need to brake if you think the corridor may be too much to take.
When your speed lowers down to 160/257, shift back to Third, BUT DO
NOT YANK THE FOOT ON THE GAS JUST YET since this is an extremely
awkward corridor. Hopefully, you won't be going any faster than
160/257 by the time you enter the Television Tunnels, but you won't
be able to drop below 150/241 provided that you've got the timing
right. You might want to go a bit slower to make this rather
awkward tunnel less hairy. Try not to go above 155/250 on this
corridor, though. Also, try to avoid sliding as Manual Transmission
has a high tendency to throw the Hornet Car into a slide more
often. Close to the Second Time Extension, the car should be
already smoothened up and before the Easy Left after the awkward
tunnel, slam on the gas BUT DON'T SHIFT TO FOURTH JUST YET. When
you are at the straightaway close to the Second Time Extension, shift
to Fourth Gear. Be careful if the tires begin to squeal, though.
Note: I've read Eugene Moon's and Jarno Kokko's Daytona USA FAQ
regarding about an advanced strategy Eugene Moon did on the Expert
Track. IT'S REALLY DANGEROUS TO DO THAT TECHNIQUE MENTIONED IN
THE KOKKO/MOON FAQ because you will also be doing lots of damage
to your tires anyway. Also, you will be sliding a lot on this track
which will also contribute to some of the tire wear so don't do the
advanced technique mentioned on the Kokko/Moon FAQ as EVERY BIT OF
YOUR TIRES WILL COUNT. Remember, the more you can avoid the dreaded
concrete and the grass, the longer your tires will last. Please note
that if you choose to touch the grass, not only will you get bogged
down, but you will also be doing some damage to your tires as well
(since the lawn will overspin your tires, causing massive tire burn).
If you have gotten past through the Television Area, OK now you will
be facing four obscene turns meaning that you will rarely be at Fourth
Gear right in this section of the track. If you frequent Dave and
Buster's (where there's a super-expensive 8-player Daytona USA unit),
then you will need to pay attention to the following to make those
expensive "chips" count.
Jeffry McWild Tear Curve
------------------------
This turn is a lot more deadlier than the Fossil Tear Curve and happens
more sooner and is shorter in length. The timing of this turn is
a lot harder than in Dinosaur Canyon as you don't have a termination
of the Downgrade to aid you anymore. You will need to pay close
attention to this if you want to go fast at this turn but thus stay
safe on this one:
Automatic Transmission: Try to find a great spot to cut the apex using
the tried and true out-and-in technique. You will be at a modest speed
when doing this so keep that in mind. Brake and tilt the wheel hard at
the same time and keep the foot off the gas at all times until you are
finished with the turn and the car is back in a straight line. If the
yaw isn't too loose, then you shouldn't be spinning out while taking
this turn. Don't go any faster than 160/257 for this one because this
amalgamation of the Fossil Tear Curve has LOTS OF CONCRETE that can
really wreak severe havoc on the scrubs.
Manual Transmission: Here, you also want to find a great spot to cut
the apex using out-and-in, but you shouldn't be using the brake here
because the Manual Gearbox does the slowing down for you. Downshift
to First Gear while your foot is on the gas and after you drop below
165/265, remove the foot off the gas (if you want to to make it less
hairy) and shift to Third Gear. Even though you may be sliding, shifting
to Third Gear should smoothen up the car's yaw, thus giving Manual
Transmission some advantages over Automatic. You should already have
the car smoothened out as you exit the turn and you should shift back
to Fourth Gear.
Battle at the Virtua Inn Seashore
---------------------------------
Don't let the slope fool you because right after the seemingly easy
right, the Beach Sharp Left follows so instantly that you barely have
any time for some error. You may need to stay on the left side of the
track and make sure that you are maintaining a speed range of in between
175-185 mph (282-300 km/h). Don't slide on the easy right because you
will need every ounce of control for the Beach Sharp Left. Cut the
apex of the easy right and stay at the right side of the track whilst
keeping the speed below 186/300 at all costs. You should be at the
right side of the track when you exit from the easy right as the Beach
Sharp Left happens so soon that you don't have much time to prepare
for that turn. It's a REALLY SHARP left that there are several
conditions that you need to follow.
Automatic Transmission: You should be at the right side of the track
right after you finish cutting the apex of the Easy Right at 186/300.
The reason why I am so vehement into staying at the right side of the
track is because you will have to be using the out-and-in technique to
avoid any unnecessary loss of speed for this one. Find a good spot
to brake and release the pedal at all times. Definitely brake to under
165/265 at all costs and start sliding. You should be able to cut the
apex and barely miss the grass and a possible wall hit if you time it
right. YOU MUST BE SLIDING, KEEPING THE FOOT OFF THE PEDAL, AND GOING
NO FASTER THAN 265 KM/H (165 MPH) if you want to stay competitive.
After the Beach Sharp, straighten up the car and prepare for a deadly
amalgamation of the Windmill Hairpin and the AM2 Memorial Curve after
Time Extension Number 3.
Manual Transmission: It is the utmost importance that you do not go
any faster than 165/265 at all costs in order to maintain your edge
over the drone cars. You should be at the right side of the track when
you finish with the Easy Right. Even though this turn is crappy, don't
bother using the brakes because the Gearbox does the slowing down for
you. Shift down to First Gear while your foot is on the gas and after
you shift down to First Gear, get your foot off the gas. When your
speed drops down to 165/265, shift back to Third. DO NOT start the
turn at over 165/265 as you may touch the grass and even undergo an
unwelcome touch from the dreaded fence, doing massive damage to your
car. You must be sliding and keeping the foot off the pedal to make
this trick work for you. Straighten up the car once you finish this
turn and shift to Fourth Gear after smoothening up the car.
The Uphill Hairpin
------------------
The straightaway's rather short so don't let the straight fool you.
This is definitely a combination of both the Windmill Hairpin and the
AM2 Hairpin Turns at the Dinosaur Canyon Track. This is possibly the
most intricate turn to undertake in the first half of the track (This
track has two hairpins). However, there is a pointer to take on this
dreaded hairpin:
Automatic Transmission: Stay on the left side of the track just before
you cross the Third Time Extension. Just a little after you cross the
Third Time Extension, brake and release the gas. When your speed drops
to about 145/233, stop braking and start sliding. Lousy timing will
result in some modest lawn-mowing, which will also ruin your tires in
addition to bogging you down and causing an outbreak on your car's
yaw tolerance. If your timing was right, then you should miss the
grass on both sides of the track. After the turn terminates, straighten
up the car and then slam on the gas at a straight line.
Manual Transmission: Do the same thing as with Automatic Transmission,
but this time, a little bit after you cross Time Extension 3, shift to
First Gear while the foot is on the gas. Start sliding and remove the
foot off the gas as soon as your sliding's good enough to avoid the
grass at the left. Be sure that you shift back to either third or fourth
immediately after you get the foot off the gas. At the end of the turn,
get the car nice and straight, go back to Third Gear, and pedal to the
metal. I often have problems with this turn because this is where I
tend to face a lot of drone resistance in this track. If done correctly,
you should be dropping no slower than 145 mph (233 kmh) but you shouldn't
be going any faster than 150 mph (241 kmh) either. Timing is required
if you want to take this turn without drama.
Note: You may need to do a quick 4-2-3-4 if you feel that you might
kiss the grass. Sometimes doing 4-1-4-2-3-4 with the gas as reduced
or at no feed sometimes helps your tires and your position inside the
track.
The Heartland and the harsh way back
------------------------------------
Right after you exit from the hairpin, there shouldn't be any problems
until you reach the next right turn. At the right turn...
Automatic Transmission: Brake a bit while keeping the foot on the gas
to loosen up the yaw a bit. You should be cutting the apex of the right
turn. Release the pedal right after you start sliding. Hopefully, the
slide will also last for the first part of the Mountainside S-Curve
which proceeds the Fourth Time Extension. Now at the end of the
Mountainside S-Curve, you should be turning left. Depending on whether
your risk of slamming into the concrete is high or not, you may need to
give a little bit of gas. Try not to slide here at all as the entrance
back to the Freeway is extremely narrow. Either way, don't go over
155/250 in any turn from the first hard right as you will either touch
the grass or hit the concrete really hard if you do so. When you have
smoothened up the car from the ramp, then pedal to the metal. Use the
bridge to milk up cars for higher positions but don't get too
confident because the next ramp is coming up.
Manual Transmission: Shift to First Gear while keeping the foot on the
gas to loosen up the yaw. You should be cutting the apex of the right
turn. Release the pedal right after you start sliding and shift to
Third Gear. You should be able to maintain speeds of between 155 mph
to 165 mph (250-265 km/h) for the Mountainside S-Curve and before the
Fourth Time Extension. Keep the foot off the gas for the moment as the
ramp is coming up. Hopefully, you are at 160/257 by the time you cross
the Fourth Time Extension. Turn left with the foot off the gas. Once
the turn ends, slam on the gas and at a straight line, shift to Fourth
Gear and use the bridge to gain higher positions. Don't get too
confident with the bridge as another ramp is coming up. Don't slide
while you enter back into the Freeway because there's not enough room
for sliding.
The Bridge
----------
This is as close to a dedicated straightaway for this track--use it
wisely. Be careful because the Ramp is coming up and it's narrow
track makes slides a forbidden skill in this point. When you see the
ramp, you may be at speeds of 200 mph (322 kmh). I recommend that you
cut your speed to below 185 mph (298 kmh). Be sure you do your speed
cutting at a straight line as a skid could hold a huge consequence at
hand. You need to release the gas pedal as you are taking this turn
and as soon as you are able to cross the fifth Time Extension without
drama, floor it. If you start slowing down, REMOVE THE FOOT OFF THE
GAS RIGHT AWAY and do all of your slowing down at a straight line.
By removing the foot off the gas, you will reduce chances of skidding.
Make sure that the car's yaw isn't too loose because the ramp is sort
of unwelcome to most players. The ideal crossing speed for the fifth
Time Extension is at or close to 190 mph (306 kmh). All I'm only asking
you to do is to refrain from skidding and do all of your slowing down
ahead of time, at a straight line, and keep the foot off the gas while
slowing down and taking on the ramp until you are close to Time Extension
5, regardless of the transmission.
The Space Shuttle Launchpad
---------------------------
An easy left which suddenly becomes a sharp left, this turn fools the
unprepared and the scrubs at all costs. Right after passing Time
Extension 5, you should be at the right side of the track. There are
three Turn Left signs that you should use as a cue to reduce the
severity of this hellhole. Now...
Automatic: You should be at the right side of the track and when you
are about to "tag" the Second Turn Left Sign, brake while you have
your foot off the gas and release the gas pedal after your tires begin
to squeal. When your speed drops down to 178 mph (287 km/h), stop
braking and control the sliding. Always keep your foot off the pedal
until you are finished crossing the sharp left. Now after the sharp
left smoothen up the car and pedal to the metal at a straight line.
Don't turn too hard on the Space Shuttle S-Curve as it's relatively
sharp. Be really easy on the steering wheel at the Space Shuttle
Area as being too harsh will increase chances of mowing the lawn or
touching the barriers. If your timing was lousy on the Space Shuttle
Sharp Left, then you may hit the grass or the walls.
Manual: You should be at the right side of the track when you are
about to "tag" the Second Turn Left Sign. At the Second Sign, release
the gas and shift to First Gear. When your speed drops to 290 km/h
(180 mph), shift back to Third Gear. Don't bother shifting to Fourth
Gear as shifting to Fourth Gear makes it hard to smoothen up your car
during a turn. If your timing was lousy, then you might touch the
lawn, causing some serious tire damage. After you finish up taking
on the turn, smoothen up the car and floor the car with the gearshift
at Fourth at a straight line. Don't turn too hard on the Space Shuttle
S-Curve as all it does is inhibit harsh-turning of the steering wheel.
Ease up on the steering wheel at the S-Curve. After this initial
S-Curve, you should have no problems until you reach the final headache
of the track.
The Pirate Ship Area
--------------------
On the S-Curve after the sharp Space Shuttle Left, be really easy on
the steering wheel as being too harsh will throw you onto the grass or
even onto a hit with the fence. You can go full speed ahead on the
next left turn, but you may need to release the gas pedal at the right
turn because the higher the speed intake in attempt to slow down for
the Pirate Ship Hairpin, the higher the chances of spinning out.
The Pirate Ship Hairpin
-----------------------
The hardest turn in the game. You need to be at the right side of the
track with the foot off the pedal (while taking on the easy right) as
you are about to enter a really sharp hairpin.
Automatic Transmission: As soon as you are seeing these warning signs,
keep the foot off the gas at all times and brake to below 130 mph (209
kmh). You will be sliding but strong countersliding is required if you
want to avoid spinning out. Try to cut the apex so that you reduce
chances of masturbating the right barrier. Be gentle with the slide
during this turn because it's really sharp and there's no banking at
all. After finishing this turn, you should be aiming at the ramp so
that you can cross the Next Lap Line. This turn will take practice
so don't get mad if you can't master it your first couple of times.
It's slightly easier to take this turn with Manual Transmission,
though.
Manual Transmission: As soon as you are seeing these warning signs,
keep the foot off the gas at all times whilst shifting down to First
Gear and braking at the same time. When your speed drops to 135 mph
(217 Kmh), shift to Third (the yaw should be loose enough) and start
sliding. Slide very gently and countersteer strongly because it's
really easy to overhike the yaw and it's also easy to spin-out here.
Always keep the foot off the pedal until your car is back at the
straight line. You should be aiming right at the ramp when you finish
taking on the turn. Slam on the gas only if the car's completely
smoothened up. You may need to go slower in order to reduce chances
of goofing up on this part of the track. Don't go over 135/217 or you
might touch the right side of the concrete.
After entering the ramp from the harsh hairpin, there shouldn't be any
more problems at the final stretch of the track. Two laps on just about
every machine to finish this race.
========================================================================
THE DO'S AND DONT'S
Again, this FAQ can only show up on the following websites:
* Verasnaship Interactive, http://www.verasnaship.net
* GameFAQs, http://www.gamefaqs.com
* Secrets of the Game Sages, http://www.gamesages.com
* Cheat Code Central, http://www.cheatcc.com
* Game Shark Code Creators Club, http://www.cmgsccc.com
You can always get the latest version at Verasnaship first since I run
the website for myself. GameFAQs does a good job keeping the files
up-to-date at all times and is the most visited site for FAQ-related
walkthroughs. Secrets of the Game Sages is a "Code-related" partner
to GameFAQs since both GameFAQs and Secrets of the Game Sages share the
same information. Cheat Code Central not only has codes, but up-to-date
FAQs and Text-based Walkthroughs based upon marshmallow's knowledge.
Finally, Game Shark Code Creators Club is a Game Shark site run under
the Code Master to provide up-to-date Game Shark Codes and is a highly
visited Game Shark Site.
Segaweb and Seganet does a good job explaining a lot of Sega-related
stuff such as the Dreamcast, and all the games coming out for the
most promising Sega Video Game System of all time.
DONT'S: Never, ever, ever place this file directly onto your Internet
Account as I'm now getting sick and tired of people trying to store the
outdated version of my files.
DO'S: You are permitted to create a link to any of these websites.
Linking to GameFAQs is goverened by the Legal Disclaimer as foretold
under the statement, "Linking Rights". I highly recommend that you make
a link to my website so that people will always have the latest version
of this work viewed right through their screen. The only permissible
link that you can use to link to this file is as outlined as in the
following:
* http://www.verasnaship.net/text/arcade.html (The Arcade Stable)
Part of the reason why I'm doing this is because if you don't view an
HTML Site, then you may not be able to run the ads that appear on top
of the HTML Document, which IS NO FAIR TO THE WEBMASTER. For details
about linking rules, visit http://www.templetons.com/brad/linkright.html
which is Brad Templeton's Linking Rights Essay.
========================================================================
RESOURCES OF THIS DOCUMENT
* Jarno Kokko and Eugene Moon (You can find a copy if their Daytona USA
FAQ at http://www.gamefaqs.com)
========================================================================
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
* Toshihiro Nagoshi for being the main force behind an outstanding
game.
* NASCAR and Daytona Speedway for permitting Toshihiro Nagoshi to
create this game pursuant to a license.
* Imagine Games Network for accepting Sega Sages and GameFAQs.com as
IGN Affiliates.
* All of Sega for creating realistic Arcade Racing Games ever since
Virtua Racing.
* Virtua Racing for being the first realistic driving game in the
market.
* Yu Suzuki for being a part of Sega's AM2.
* Jarno Kokko and Eugene Moon for being the first one to create a
Daytona USA FAQ and for being the first one to create an FAQ for
a deluxe machine.
* Guorung Lim for pinpointing even better (but dangerous to my sights)
tactics for this game.
* Kao Megura for being the most prolific FAQ Author.
* GameFAQs for being the largest stable of original work
* Finally, Hornet for being the hero car of the game.
* Jason Lewis for the advanced strategies regarding about the Rocket
Start and the Dinosaur Canyon Track.
Note: Please check out http://www.verasnaship.net/autoracing/ and tell
me what you think of it.
** END OF DOCUMENT **
Unpublished Work (c) 1999 Mark Kim. All Rights Reserved
Daytona USA (c) International Speedway Corporation--licensed to Sega
for Amusement usage.